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A little (emphasis on little...) progress:

Both pulpit options came out OK. The full scratch is more accurate, but the kit conversion would be usable, I think. I added the fourth L-shaped bracket connecting the ring to the outer shield after fixing the ring in place - easier that way. I tried drilling indents in the 50-cal MG mid-barrel, not entirely successfully... but I was pleased with the scratched ammo box. Maybe I will replace the barrel with thinner wire rod... hmmm...

Statistics: Posted by ntrocket88 — September 22nd, 2017, 1:31 am

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Statistics: Posted by Corricon — September 21st, 2017, 12:19 pm

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Statistics: Posted by Corricon — September 19th, 2017, 9:09 pm

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Then I fitted some extra stowage:

This was then painted and it is also kleared ready for decals:

Updates will follow.

Statistics: Posted by Corricon — September 19th, 2017, 1:01 pm

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So my forlorn hope with these kits was the iconic 'pulpit' machine gun mount - the A1 part of the M3A1 and M5A1. I tried making two out of cardboard many years ago as a teenager, to convert two Matchbox M16. Let's just say it was less than successful and draw the curtain on them! So, I was all excited to have 'proper' injection molded ones. Imagine my disappointment... they are completely inaccurate from both Airfix and Nitto. Not even close, really. And the MG pulpit is very tricky to scratch build - even if you are not using cardboard! At least for me. An Interconnected circle and a complex curve...shudder.

So here is the Nitto one, as it comes in the kit:

The problems are: a) The top around the MG mounting ring is solid. Wrong! It was open. b) The LHS with the angled step (as viewed by the driver) is straight, but it should be a short straight leading to a circular curve. c) The back is also straight with a circular bulge. Wrong again! The curve from the LHS continued round to the back, blending to another short straight that met the RHS at a right angle, so no bulge either. d) The RHS is a single straight at right angles to the front and back, but in reality it had a bend about a third of the way back from the front, angling in to the well-known curve on the front right corner. e) the MG ring outer diameter is too big, while the inner diameter is too small, making the part too thick. Obviously all the sides are also far too thick as well... f) While the Airfix kit has all the same problems a) through e), the Nitto has an extra one in that the front has a step on the bottom edge that should not be there.

Disaster! I was reluctantly forced to try scratch building one. So, being a glutton for punishment, I decided to make two! I worked in parallel to see if I could modify the kit parts, that I felt would give me two rigid sides and a guaranteed round MG ring, while making another completely from scratch.

First the kit conversion:

As you can see, I cut off most of the LHS and rear and removed all the 'top' surfaces. I made a bend in the RHS and adjusted the front curve a little to bring the back of the RHS and the front back to being 90 degrees. I trimmed the shortened LHS to increase the angle and decrease height of the flat where the complex curve attaches. I have attempted to make the LHS/Rear curve with two straights leading to a circular curve, using Evergreen strip. Another length of strip filled in the front bottom step. For the MG ring, I sanded the outer diameter down, while scraping the inner diameter to make it larger, then stuck more short strip 'brackets' to the outside, that will (hopefully) attach it to the outer shield.

Next the complete scratch build:

This was based on George Bradford plans and is much thinner and slightly smaller than the kit part conversion. The key was creating a perfectly round MG ring. My solution was to curl some strip on the back of my knife, then bend it round a 1/2" drill bit shank, cut to length and glued in place. I then poured boiling water over it, which caused it to relax into the shape. When removed from the drill bit and re-glued, it holds a perfect circle. Note that the LHS needs the small step and the front, to go over the front windscreen. Hot water was also used to 'set' the angles on the outer shield as well.

Statistics: Posted by ntrocket88 — September 19th, 2017, 2:01 am

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Statistics: Posted by Corricon — September 14th, 2017, 1:39 pm

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Wee Friends do a set of Quad wheels for the Airfix Kit, which incidentally I used on the Matchbox kit. They may 'look' right on this kit plus that have the hub detail too!

Statistics: Posted by Corricon — September 13th, 2017, 6:18 pm

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Statistics: Posted by LarryH57 — September 12th, 2017, 11:47 pm

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Hopefully it'll get some paint tomorrow.

Statistics: Posted by Corricon — September 12th, 2017, 7:54 pm

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Next up I will need extend the rear stowage boxes to the edge of the hull before I get to add some paint to it

More updates to follow.

Statistics: Posted by Corricon — September 12th, 2017, 2:26 pm

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The T-2 / M-31 is one of my favorites. I long ago started a major conversion, to include full interior, of the Tamiya Lee but set it aside. It's still boxed up. Since Academy came out with a new Lee and a couple folks have new aftermarket for the T-2 conversion and since I've learned something about making tool chests and cabinets, I keep wanting to drag it all out again. Sigh ...

Statistics: Posted by jRatz — September 7th, 2017, 4:48 pm

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Here it is without any paint on:

It was just a matter then of giving it a coat of green on the main hull:

and then colouring in all the added parts:

and then adding the unit markings to the front:

Statistics: Posted by Corricon — September 7th, 2017, 3:43 pm

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