Building with Balsa

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Stuart
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Building with Balsa

Post by Stuart »

I've recently purchased a couple of old 60's/70's books on building scale models using Balsa wood. In my efforts to get better at scratch building I thought it would be a good material to learn.

However has anyone ever tried building a complete model (not RC) from Balsa, rather than just using it for modifications?

And does anyone have any general tips on using it, and painting it (I've heard can be quite difficult).

Cheers

Stuart
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59North
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by 59North »

Most balsa models are built-up stick models covered with tissue and then doped, from makers such as Guillow's. If they are not R/C, then they are usually free flight rubber or gliders. If they are not intended to fly in wood, then they certainly don't have to be balsa. Carved models are also fairly common.
I've done quite abit of this in my younger years, both free flight and R/C. With patience, some of the scale built up models can be made to look as good as plastic; usually they are quite abit bigger. I've seen some beautiful stick n tissue planes.

I recently bought Guillow's Lancer, which is a stick model of an imaginary plane. I also still have a few of the old Sterling in stock, like the Stinson SR-9. I believe I can make the SR-9 look nearly as good as plastic, although rivit counting precision would be questionable.
They are lots of fun. Hope this helps.
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by stevehed »

Hi Stuart,
I'm a recent convert to balsa. It is easily shaped but just as easily damaged, that is susceptible to dents. However fillers such as Plasto will remove them in the normal manner. Conventional wisdom was to treat the wood with a cellulose/chalk mix but I could never find out what the actual ratio was so I used liquid CA to coat the surface. This gives a harder surface. I applied a couple of coats and this worked for me and the paint adhered with no problems. I've built two aircraft with balsa as the main fuselage material. I hope the build threads are useful. BTW I work in 1/72 scale.

http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.o ... 79&t=49935;
http://airfixtributeforum.myfastforum.o ... 79&t=44525;
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JohnRatzenberger
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by JohnRatzenberger »

The old, original Airfix Magazines contained any number of articles about using balsa for major structural conversions. The old Aeromodeller contained a number of articles on making full models from balsa block. It makes a good carving material but it is easy to damage, as Steve says, and it's very porous. I got lazy early on and simply used Balsa Fillercoat or Balsa Grain Filler available at any flying model shop I would assume.

Once you get a good smooth, non-porous finish on the wood then it's just like painting anything else.

But if you are venturing in to full aircraft, balsa is not necessarily the best bet -- there are better woods for carving and which do not need the grain filler.

I have been carrying this book around forever (since shortly after published at any rate): Aircraft in Miniature, W.O.Doylend, The Model Aeronautical Press, UK, 1957. These were the Aeromodeller magazine folks and since they have resurrected it, this may still be available from them - or try any used bookshop.
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jssel
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by jssel »

The late Alan Hall did many conversions utilizing balsa. He was with the old Airfix Magazine. A google search for balsa ID models from WWII will surprise you. I made up a Hawker Hurricane from the printable plans.
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splash
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by splash »

Sorry if I'm teaching anyone how to suck eggs, but don't forget balsa comes in different weights that have different characteristics.

You can get very dense fine grain (better for carving and where strength is required) or very light open grain (useful for saving weight, skinning.)

The hardest part of working with balsa is getting a smooth finish, in the good old days we used to use cellulose sanding sealer that smelled like pear drop sweets.

This required several thin coats with sanding in between each coat, I always remember sanding the wood super smooth then adding the first coat of sanding sealer and watching all the grain open up and the surface changing to the texture of sand paper, but after several coats and lots of sanding you do get a smooth surface like plastic.

Don't forget you can use what you make in balsa as a master for making a mould for reproducing resin copies.
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MarkyM607
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by MarkyM607 »

I once built a 1/144th scale Argosy just using soft balsa. It was from a set of plans with cut throughs of all of the aircraft. I then used wood filler to make a smooth paintable surface, but it wasn't the best idea as it was very reluctant to attach itself to the balsa. Once on however it was easily sanded and made a tough smooth surface.
I have lately found that Bass wood is much better for this, perhaps even all the things you would use balsa for. It sands easily and it firmer than balsa. :grin:
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Stuart
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by Stuart »

Thanks for the input Gents - very good advice (Steve those builds are superb).

I think for a first project I'll try to build the missing pods for my Airfix Tornado (Boz and the other one), but I would like to have a go at something more involved.

Two questions - What the best glues to use - I guess Balsa cement for wood to wood, but what about wood to plastic? I'm assuming CA?

Where do you source plans from? I thought I might try something simple such as WWII single first, but then I'd like to have a go at something like the Mew Gull or a classic 30's racer.

Cheers

Stuart
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Stuart
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by Stuart »

jssel wrote:The late Alan Hall did many conversions utilizing balsa. He was with the old Airfix Magazine. A google search for balsa ID models from WWII will surprise you. I made up a Hawker Hurricane from the printable plans.
Woops missed this - I'll have a look! Thanks!
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by JohnRatzenberger »

Any multi-purpose glue will do just fine; I'm not a fan of CA if you need strength because of sanding/shaping.

As I noted, the old Aeromodeller magazines had those monthly -- "Aircraft Described" 3 or 4-view with cross-sections and other details. Check out the resurrected MAP. Also any number of old books -- 3-views w/cross-sections used to be standard fare. We've lost something.
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MarkyM607
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by MarkyM607 »

I get most of my plans from HPC Publishing on the web, they seem to do most if not all of the plans that were in Aviation News. The plus to these plans is that they have cross-sections of each part of the aircraft (fuselage, wings etc), so that you know what shape the parts of the subject should be as you move along the subject.
Hoping to return to modelling sometime this year!! :lol:
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by vacant »

I often use balsa for restorations, e.g. when I need to make a large replacement part. I have some models where one side of a fuselage is made from balsa and others where balsa was used to make wings. Sometimes I skin over the balsa with 5 thou. plastic card rather than trying to fill in the grains.

The wings on this Vega were made from balsa wood but they were not skinned.

Image

The model below went one step further. It is made entirely from balsa, apart from the floats and a few other small pieces.

Image
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Stuart
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by Stuart »

And they are both amazing Vacant! Good tip on the skinning with plastic - what glue do you use to attach it?
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by vacant »

Cheap Poundland (other shops are available) small tubes of superglue - I just smear it over the surface and it sticks almost instantly. However, get it right because pulling 5 thou. plastic card off the balsa wood core can be very difficult.
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Re: Building with Balsa

Post by Zee28 »

Sir T, I have made more models in balsa than I have in plastic, but the difference is they were flying models where quality of finish and scale accuracy are far less important, so I am not a lot of help to you mate.

But, to get a reasonable finish as used to brush the balsa with slighty water down coat of this:

Image


I used because of it's light weight (important on flying models) but it is also incredibly fine and when thinned slightly it fills in the grain brilliantly and just requires a light sanding afterwards, then prime, then paint.

You can get it in places like Screwfix.

Zee28
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