Ratch's 2016 WIP
Ratch's 2016 WIP
Happy New Year all
My first project for 2016 is this Esci/Ertl 1:35 NATO Assault Troops (5507).
These pieces are not identified specifically, but a glance through the Osprey Elite Book (No. 16) 'NATO Armies Today' makes it clear that this was the source from which the figures were designed. Using this source the figures would appear to be as follows:
British (illustrated in Elite No. 14 and No. 1) (4 poses)
First two British infantry, one with rifle under arm, the second firing in a standing pose. The last two are British Parachute Regiment. One is running, holding his helmet and with rifle at the hip. The fourth man wears a 1974 flak jacket and is kneeling.
French (3 poses)
French Infantryman (with distinctive 5.56mm FAMAS assault rifle), a sniper armed with an FRF-1 rifle being held across the body, and a soldier armed with a MAT 49 sub machine gun under his left arm. The last two may be Foreign Legion, and the last figure is more suitable for the period up to the 1970s, earlier than the rest.
Though there are only seven poses, this is representative of the British soldiers that NATO could call upon. However as France was not part of the NATO military command by this era they are not technically NATO troops at all! As ever detail is very good and accuracy seems fine with little flash. The poses are OK too if rather dull and flat, though you would never create charges with these figures anyway! This was one of the last sets Esci ever made. Like Matchbox they started producing modern subjects just before abandoning figure production altogether. What this may tell us about the wisdom of producing modern figures is hard to say, but if it is just coincidence then it is a very strange one.
I started with the basic pale shades.
British
French
My first project for 2016 is this Esci/Ertl 1:35 NATO Assault Troops (5507).
These pieces are not identified specifically, but a glance through the Osprey Elite Book (No. 16) 'NATO Armies Today' makes it clear that this was the source from which the figures were designed. Using this source the figures would appear to be as follows:
British (illustrated in Elite No. 14 and No. 1) (4 poses)
First two British infantry, one with rifle under arm, the second firing in a standing pose. The last two are British Parachute Regiment. One is running, holding his helmet and with rifle at the hip. The fourth man wears a 1974 flak jacket and is kneeling.
French (3 poses)
French Infantryman (with distinctive 5.56mm FAMAS assault rifle), a sniper armed with an FRF-1 rifle being held across the body, and a soldier armed with a MAT 49 sub machine gun under his left arm. The last two may be Foreign Legion, and the last figure is more suitable for the period up to the 1970s, earlier than the rest.
Though there are only seven poses, this is representative of the British soldiers that NATO could call upon. However as France was not part of the NATO military command by this era they are not technically NATO troops at all! As ever detail is very good and accuracy seems fine with little flash. The poses are OK too if rather dull and flat, though you would never create charges with these figures anyway! This was one of the last sets Esci ever made. Like Matchbox they started producing modern subjects just before abandoning figure production altogether. What this may tell us about the wisdom of producing modern figures is hard to say, but if it is just coincidence then it is a very strange one.
I started with the basic pale shades.
British
French
All models are equal. Some models are more equal than others.
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- NOT the sheep
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
A Happy New Year to you too Ratch. This is an interesting start to your modelling year and it's many moons since anything produced by Esci crossed my bench. Seems to be a decent enough set of Cold War squaddies.
Doing - Tamiya 1/35th Universal Carrier.
Work is the curse of the modelling classes!
IPMS#12300
Work is the curse of the modelling classes!
IPMS#12300
Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
Happy New Year to you too Shaun
This is how I went about painting the DMP
Vallejo Model Color 72 70970 Deep Green = British DPM camouflage pattern
Vallejo Model Color 93 70887 Brown Violet = British DPM camouflage pattern
Vallejo Model Color 148 70941 Burnt Umber = British DPM camouflage pattern
Vallejo Model Color 166 70994 Dark Grey = British DPM camouflage pattern
Vallejo Model Color 92 70888 Olive Grey = French DPM camouflage & Legionnaire’s DPM camouflage
Vallejo Model Color 149 70872 Chocolate Brown = French DPM camouflage
Vallejo Model Color 167 70995 German Grey = French DPM camouflage
Vallejo Model Color 139 70846 Mahogany Brown = Legionnaire’s DPM camouflage
Vallejo Model Color 167 70995 German Grey = Legionnaire’s DPM camouflage
This is how I went about painting the DMP
Vallejo Model Color 72 70970 Deep Green = British DPM camouflage pattern
Vallejo Model Color 93 70887 Brown Violet = British DPM camouflage pattern
Vallejo Model Color 148 70941 Burnt Umber = British DPM camouflage pattern
Vallejo Model Color 166 70994 Dark Grey = British DPM camouflage pattern
Vallejo Model Color 92 70888 Olive Grey = French DPM camouflage & Legionnaire’s DPM camouflage
Vallejo Model Color 149 70872 Chocolate Brown = French DPM camouflage
Vallejo Model Color 167 70995 German Grey = French DPM camouflage
Vallejo Model Color 139 70846 Mahogany Brown = Legionnaire’s DPM camouflage
Vallejo Model Color 167 70995 German Grey = Legionnaire’s DPM camouflage
All models are equal. Some models are more equal than others.
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- NOT the sheep
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
Nice one Ratch and an interesting contrast between the British and French DPM.
Doing - Tamiya 1/35th Universal Carrier.
Work is the curse of the modelling classes!
IPMS#12300
Work is the curse of the modelling classes!
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- Clashcityrocker
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
Nice figure painting Ratch. Your camo uniforms look good.
Nigel
Nigel
Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
Cheers lads, all done now
All models are equal. Some models are more equal than others.
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
Thanks
All models are equal. Some models are more equal than others.
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- Dazzled
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
Very effective camouflage painting Ratch, especially on the British troops
I can hardly see them
I can hardly see them
COLD WAR S.I.G. LEADER
Wherever there's danger, wherever there's trouble, wherever there's important work to be done....I'll be somewhere else building a model!
Wherever there's danger, wherever there's trouble, wherever there's important work to be done....I'll be somewhere else building a model!
Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
Thanks Daz, in a good way I hope There are better close ups here
Full of enthusiasm from my first completion I decided to dig out an old project. I had originally acquired the Airfix Sherman Crab in 2006 and was encouraged to mount it on a decent hull. Three years later I got hold of a Dragon M4A4, but having built three others at that time, decided to wait awhile before attempting the conversion. Six years further on and the project seemed less daunting. I had clearly forgotten the quirks of the Devil's medium known as photo-etch. Almost immediately I lost one of the towing loops to the Carpet Monster.
The parts are exquisitely detailed but impossibly small. They are even difficult to pick up with fine, pointed tweezers whether these be moulded or photo-etched. I struggle to see the point of parts when the layer of paint will probably be greater than the photo-etch it is covering.
Consequently I have not used all the PE provided.
The moulded plastic flails were cut off and replaced with lengths of Fred Aldous stainless steel chain attached with superglue.
Full of enthusiasm from my first completion I decided to dig out an old project. I had originally acquired the Airfix Sherman Crab in 2006 and was encouraged to mount it on a decent hull. Three years later I got hold of a Dragon M4A4, but having built three others at that time, decided to wait awhile before attempting the conversion. Six years further on and the project seemed less daunting. I had clearly forgotten the quirks of the Devil's medium known as photo-etch. Almost immediately I lost one of the towing loops to the Carpet Monster.
The parts are exquisitely detailed but impossibly small. They are even difficult to pick up with fine, pointed tweezers whether these be moulded or photo-etched. I struggle to see the point of parts when the layer of paint will probably be greater than the photo-etch it is covering.
Consequently I have not used all the PE provided.
The moulded plastic flails were cut off and replaced with lengths of Fred Aldous stainless steel chain attached with superglue.
All models are equal. Some models are more equal than others.
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
Fitting the 1:76 flail to the 1:72 hull is proving problematic
All models are equal. Some models are more equal than others.
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- Dazzled
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
It certainly looks fiddly Ratch but it also looks immensely effective and belies the small scale.
COLD WAR S.I.G. LEADER
Wherever there's danger, wherever there's trouble, wherever there's important work to be done....I'll be somewhere else building a model!
Wherever there's danger, wherever there's trouble, wherever there's important work to be done....I'll be somewhere else building a model!
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- NOT the sheep
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
The Sherman Crab is quite a project in that scale Ratch, plenty of very fiddly PE and suchlike.
Doing - Tamiya 1/35th Universal Carrier.
Work is the curse of the modelling classes!
IPMS#12300
Work is the curse of the modelling classes!
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- iggie
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
That looks fun!
I have found the best way to work with PE is to purchase a very large clear plastic storage bag (the sort that go under your bed as long as that's not full of stashed kits as well..... ) and climb inside it with your model and bench before attempting to remove any PE parts from their fret. That way, any parts that would ordinarily have been carpet-monster fodder can be picked out of the bag at the end of each session
By the way; it's best to leave the zip part-way undone for ventilation
I have found the best way to work with PE is to purchase a very large clear plastic storage bag (the sort that go under your bed as long as that's not full of stashed kits as well..... ) and climb inside it with your model and bench before attempting to remove any PE parts from their fret. That way, any parts that would ordinarily have been carpet-monster fodder can be picked out of the bag at the end of each session
By the way; it's best to leave the zip part-way undone for ventilation
Best wishes
Jim
If you can walk away from a landing, it's a good landing. If you use the airplane the next day, it's an outstanding landing
"Never put off till tomorrow, what you can do the day after tomorrow"
Jim
If you can walk away from a landing, it's a good landing. If you use the airplane the next day, it's an outstanding landing
"Never put off till tomorrow, what you can do the day after tomorrow"
- Arcwelder
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Re: Ratch's 2016 WIP
I've found the best way to work with PE is to make sure you keep the little plastic bag that it came in. Then, when you've bent, broken or lost most of it you can put the fret back in the bag, hide it at the back of the freezer and have a good cry.
Is this your sanderling?.
2016: A:40 B:12
2016: A:40 B:12