MerlinJones wrote:Before you read the following list, be assured that you do not need to rush out and buy everything on the list. As I've said, this is what I have in front of me at the moment. I've been modelling for some time now, and have collected stuff over a period of years.
Plus, a lot of what's on the list can be found at really low prices, in shops that have naff all to do with modelling.
Currently, in my model box in front of me, I have;
A good, sharp knife. …I prefer a standard “Draper” knife…similar to a Stanley knife, that holds spare blades in the handle and is very sharp. When the blade gets dull, you slide it out and snap off the blunt bit. I’ve also used a craft knife that was able to take a variety of different blades. However, I only really ever used the normal cutting blade.
Tweezers…Slant-edged...check out the make-up section of your local chemist and supermarket.
Cocktail sticks…As already mentioned, but I have a few with points and a few with the point "mushed"...these are better for applying superglue, "zip kicker" and other stuff.
Emery boards for nails. useful for sanding jobs.
Various grades of sandpaper/grit paper.
A lint-free polishing cloth.
Selection of needle files. …I have one that is round in cross-section, a flat one and one that is triangular in cross-section.
Brushes…A good selection of quality watercolour brushes, or relatively expensive modellers brushes.
Flat metal file for nails...You know the type...the sort with a little hooky bit at the end. This is ideal for opening tins of enamels and the hooky bit is great for cleaning the upper rim of your paint pots.
Very sharp, pointy scissors...Especially good for trimming decals.
Plastic chopping board.
Old brush handles…For stirring. You could use pieces of sprue.
Biro pen lid…Ideal for smoothing down masking tape in awkward nooks and crannies.
Small sponge applicators...You can get these in packs, on their own or with make-up brushes. The brushes can be used for applying pastel dust for weathering and such like. The sponges can be used for applying a mottled-effect camouflage.
Razor saw. …This is like a small tenon saw and is again, very sharp. Useful for making larger cuts.
Scribing tool.
Plastic syringes…Without the needles! Courtesy of my local Practice Nurse. Second hand and thoroughly cleaned out of the oily drugs they once contained, these are useful for adding measured drops of paints of thinners to paint.
Pin Vice…A little gizmo that will hold, by way of a hand tightenable (!) screw, all manner of small and tiny drill bits.
Tiny drill bits.
Putty knives…For smoothing and manipulating model putty.
Compass Cutter…A device that lets you cut small circles.
Steel rule. Quite essential for cutting masking tape and plasticard. A wooden or plastic one will get cut by your knife.
Cuticle Pusher…for applying and smoothing out fillers.
Clothes pegs...Wooden if you can get them...ideal for holding things together.
Rubber bands…For the same purpose. You can also use those wide rubber bands to mask stripes around fuselages and wings and stuff.
A bottle of Johnson’s "Klear”...’Nuff said.
A needle with a super-glued bead on the end of it...For sticking holes in things...the bead protects your pressing finger. A drawing Pin works just as well!
My trusty old toothbrush...used for removing paint from Mr.Muscle'd kit parts.
Various containers...a large, lidded box to put my stuff in whenever I need a dust-free environment. For example, when I've applied a gloss coat, or a coat of "Klear" to some transparencies.
Empty film canisters...useful for keeping small bits/greeblies for the Spares box, completed ordnance, crew, smaller pieces that have parted company from the sprue...etc., etc…
Blu-Tak…for holding small parts, propping up pieces, masking and for keeping rigging threads under control. Also for providing something for bay doors to sit on, when closed, prior to being superglued into place.
A big box to put it all in.
And another good tip from Beaufighter...
And from Commodore Rob:Beaufighter wrote:Those wooden stirring sticks you get in Starbucks are handy for stirring paint tinlets.
Lengths of elastic, or big rubber bands, are handy for marking and masking waterlines on ships.
And from Zero:Commodore Rob wrote:I use a scapel as a knife; far more versatile I find...
I also use acrylic paints which means I can do without a tinopener and also syringes, as my paints come with droppers
Zero wrote:One more think in my box, not metioned in Merlin very detailed and extensive list is:
STIFF DYNAMO TAPE (not the paper type)
fantastic for adding panel lines. sticks to the model in place, and then using a tool or even a knife you can re-add panel lines in the right place with ease. belive me this stuff is worth it wait in Gold when you have removed the lines and need to re-add them
And one item worth buying, and worth the £10 it will cost you. (shop around you can find them less than a tenner in the UK!)
Additional Luxury item
Badger paint mixer
http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/bad/bad121.htm;
I've had mine for two years now, and it too is worth every penny paid for it. I use it all the time, perfectly mixed paint in seconds over minutes by hand.
Also if you user Acrylic paints you also with benefit from having this to hand
Acrylic Flow Enhancer (any brand) I use Daler-Rowney's
http://www.pearlpaint.com/shop~parentID ... D~8653.htm;
Three or four drops in your Acrylic paint, and then mix well, this will make any Acrylic paint more workable, and stop it drying in your Airbrush, or make Acrylic paints more useable with a paint brush.
Dave
And finally, from me:
Don't forget that Johnson's Klear is also known as Future in some places, and may now be repackaged as "Pledge Multisurface Wax, with Future."!
It depends where in the world you are...