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Modelling Tools - Most of What You Might Need
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 Post subject: Modelling Tools - Most of What You Might Need
PostPosted: April 21st, 2011, 6:18 pm 
In the basement lab
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Joined: April 5th, 2011, 4:13 pm
Posts: 16628
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, The Great White North
Here is MerlinJones' comprehensive list, from the old site: :grin:

MerlinJones wrote:
Before you read the following list, be assured that you do not need to rush out and buy everything on the list. As I've said, this is what I have in front of me at the moment. I've been modelling for some time now, and have collected stuff over a period of years.
Plus, a lot of what's on the list can be found at really low prices, in shops that have naff all to do with modelling.

Currently, in my model box in front of me, I have;

A good, sharp knife. …I prefer a standard “Draper” knife…similar to a Stanley knife, that holds spare blades in the handle and is very sharp. When the blade gets dull, you slide it out and snap off the blunt bit. I’ve also used a craft knife that was able to take a variety of different blades. However, I only really ever used the normal cutting blade.

Tweezers…Slant-edged...check out the make-up section of your local chemist and supermarket.

Cocktail sticks…As already mentioned, but I have a few with points and a few with the point "mushed"...these are better for applying superglue, "zip kicker" and other stuff.

Emery boards for nails. useful for sanding jobs.

Various grades of sandpaper/grit paper.

A lint-free polishing cloth.

Selection of needle files. …I have one that is round in cross-section, a flat one and one that is triangular in cross-section.

Brushes…A good selection of quality watercolour brushes, or relatively expensive modellers brushes.

Flat metal file for nails...You know the type...the sort with a little hooky bit at the end. This is ideal for opening tins of enamels and the hooky bit is great for cleaning the upper rim of your paint pots.

Very sharp, pointy scissors...Especially good for trimming decals.

Plastic chopping board.

Old brush handles…For stirring. You could use pieces of sprue.

Biro pen lid…Ideal for smoothing down masking tape in awkward nooks and crannies.

Small sponge applicators
...You can get these in packs, on their own or with make-up brushes. The brushes can be used for applying pastel dust for weathering and such like. The sponges can be used for applying a mottled-effect camouflage.

Razor saw. …This is like a small tenon saw and is again, very sharp. Useful for making larger cuts.

Scribing tool.

Plastic syringes…Without the needles! Courtesy of my local Practice Nurse. Second hand and thoroughly cleaned out of the oily drugs they once contained, these are useful for adding measured drops of paints of thinners to paint.

Pin Vice…A little gizmo that will hold, by way of a hand tightenable (!) screw, all manner of small and tiny drill bits.

Tiny drill bits.

Putty knives…For smoothing and manipulating model putty.

Compass Cutter…A device that lets you cut small circles.

Steel rule. Quite essential for cutting masking tape and plasticard. A wooden or plastic one will get cut by your knife.

Cuticle Pusher…for applying and smoothing out fillers.

Clothes pegs...Wooden if you can get them...ideal for holding things together.

Rubber bands…For the same purpose. You can also use those wide rubber bands to mask stripes around fuselages and wings and stuff.

A bottle of Johnson’s "Klear”...’Nuff said.

A needle with a super-glued bead on the end of it...For sticking holes in things...the bead protects your pressing finger. A drawing Pin works just as well!

My trusty old toothbrush...used for removing paint from Mr.Muscle'd kit parts.

Various containers...a large, lidded box to put my stuff in whenever I need a dust-free environment. For example, when I've applied a gloss coat, or a coat of "Klear" to some transparencies.
Empty film canisters...useful for keeping small bits/greeblies for the Spares box, completed ordnance, crew, smaller pieces that have parted company from the sprue...etc., etc…

Blu-Tak…for holding small parts, propping up pieces, masking and for keeping rigging threads under control. Also for providing something for bay doors to sit on, when closed, prior to being superglued into place.

A big box to put it all in.

And another good tip from Beaufighter...

Beaufighter wrote:
Those wooden stirring sticks you get in Starbucks are handy for stirring paint tinlets.

Lengths of elastic, or big rubber bands, are handy for marking and masking waterlines on ships.

And from Commodore Rob:

Commodore Rob wrote:
I use a scapel as a knife; far more versatile I find...

I also use acrylic paints which means I can do without a tinopener and also syringes, as my paints come with droppers :)

And from Zero:

Zero wrote:
One more think in my box, not metioned in Merlin very detailed and extensive list is:

STIFF DYNAMO TAPE (not the paper type)

fantastic for adding panel lines. sticks to the model in place, and then using a tool or even a knife you can re-add panel lines in the right place with ease. belive me this stuff is worth it wait in Gold when you have removed the lines and need to re-add them

And one item worth buying, and worth the £10 it will cost you. (shop around you can find them less than a tenner in the UK!)

Additional Luxury item

Badger paint mixer

I've had mine for two years now, and it too is worth every penny paid for it. I use it all the time, perfectly mixed paint in seconds over minutes by hand.

Also if you user Acrylic paints you also with benefit from having this to hand

Acrylic Flow Enhancer (any brand) I use Daler-Rowney's ... D~8653.htm

Three or four drops in your Acrylic paint, and then mix well, this will make any Acrylic paint more workable, and stop it drying in your Airbrush, or make Acrylic paints more useable with a paint brush.


And finally, from me:

Don't forget that Johnson's Klear is also known as Future in some places, and may now be repackaged as "Pledge Multisurface Wax, with Future."!

It depends where in the world you are... :)

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Modelling Tools - Most of What You Might Need
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 Post subject: Re: Modelling Tools - Most of What You Might Need
PostPosted: January 27th, 2013, 2:26 am 
The Bug Has Well And Truly Bitten
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Joined: January 19th, 2013, 6:58 pm
Posts: 472
Location: Retired to Tucson, Arizona!
I use round toothpicks to apply super glue and aliphatic resin (Elmers white glue) and after getting the glue on the toothpick. I put the glue on a smooth surface, like the lid of a paint bottle, and twist the toothpick about a quarter inch up the pick. I've found that rolling it in between my fingers while applying, keeping the pick almost level with the part keeps the glue from being too thick in spots and gives a more uniform application.
When I'm done I let the glue dry and use my sanding block to get the excess glue off so it can be used several times.

uavdb (Dave)
Loving retirement and living in Arizona.

Modelling Tools - Most of What You Might Need
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 Post subject: Re: Modelling Tools - Most of What You Might Need
PostPosted: January 13th, 2015, 8:04 pm 
Modelling Gent and Scholar
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Joined: November 23rd, 2012, 4:20 pm
Posts: 1725
The metal tops off glass bottles are handy to have to hold small amounts of glue.
Iv found that way alot easier to control how much glue goes onto the model.

Don't Cry Because It's Over, Smile Because It Happened.

Currently a member of the following SIG's:
Cold War SIG
Classic British Kit SIG

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