Airfix SA330 Puma from Whirlybirds GB

[Sissel]

A continuation from Whirlybirds Group Build.

I have put clearfix between the glazings, and added filler around the back. Also had an attempt at making door slider supporter. First time I use plasticard!




Next up is painting and I'm excited to see how that goes with the windows. The frames will be thick.
Given how warped/distorted the front glazing piece is I'm happy how it's gone together.

[Dazzled]

It looks like a very neat bit of construction. Particularly impressive given the hassles you've had with this.

[Sissel]

Cheers, Darryl.
I'm past the worst stages and have begun painting.
Started painting the green, and as it was drying as I went along I went over with a second coat.




As I mentioned in the GB thread, the glazing up front will be as it is due to all the problems. I've made the best of it. When painting the frames I noticed the clearfix hadn't covered everywhere and there are small holes and gaps.
I must also remember to drybrush the rotor, must... not... forget...

[shangos70]

Coming on great Prisca, I built the Heller Armee de Terre version about 2yrs ago. The mouldings were still pretty good and I didn't have much trouble with the clear parts.

[bluesteel]

A great save on the nose glazing Sissel, it's hard to see any gaps in the photos. I think I have one of the same vintage in my stash, I'll have to dig it out and see if it suffers from the same issue.

[Clashcityrocker]

Nice looking helicopter.

Nigel

[Sissel]

Thanks, guys.

Painted a second coat of sea grey. What's left is do the blackgrey area around exhaust, paint the underside, some small bits. Then will add decals before putting on rest of bits and stuff.

[Migrant]

Impressive save Sissel, I'd have binned the build as soon as I discovered the canopy gaps.

[Sissel]

Impressive save Sissel, I'd have binned the build as soon as I discovered the canopy gaps.

Thank you, Mike.
But now you are just being bashful. I'm sure you'd fix it and turn it into one of your always so stunning models.

[BlohmWolf]

Prisca is right. Your helldiver was proof enough.

BTW, is it finished yet?

[Sissel]

BTW, is it finished yet?

That's one I've not heard before!

Due to enourmous headache the last days this is going really, really slow. But it will be done before I'm off on holiday.

[JamesPerrin]

Looks like you've done the best you can with it, such a shame that the part have warped so badly I was shocked to see the images.

[Sissel]

Cheers, James.
The more beers you have, the less warped it seems.

I started decalling today. They curl around backing paper, so had to be very careful. The serial number was the worst, both X and 7 curled around, and when on model I applied lots of microsol. Then carefully tried to pull back the X and 7 (first and last number). To my surprise, I managed to roll over and straighten out both numbers with absolutely no damage.
The same happened with Royal Air Force. The R curled immediately over the O, but managed to pull it back when on model.
I didn't bother doing much today, so only got these on. I'll skip the smaller stencils as they just curl and crack.

[Clashcityrocker]

For all the grief it gave you Sissel, that cockpit glazing looks very nice.

Nigel

[PaulBradley]

Looking good.

A quick tip with the decals, for everyone - cut quite close around the decal you wish to apply, then soak as usual, but don't let the backing paper fall away from the decal - lift them both out of the water together. When you are ready to apply, bring the backing paper with the decal still on it up to the position where you want the decal to be. Using tweezers, gently slide the edge of the decal onto the model and lightly hold it there with the tip of the tweezers, then gently pull away the backing paper. The decal should then simply pull down onto the surface by itself without curling or distorting.