Card 1:1200 Titanic

[splash]

To help me keep my sanity after attempting to build an Airfix TSR2 I thought it would make a nice change to try and build a card ship.

Now this build will take me totally out of my comfort zone, both being a ship in a small scale and made of card, what can possibly go wrong

I found this site that has free downloads of card models and thought the simple lines of the Titanic would be a good starting point, if it all goes wrong then all I have lost is the cost of the card and ink.

If this build does put me over the edge then I want to blame SJPONeill as his TSR2 1/32 scale card build is the inspiration for this build, check out Simons build here

Progress so far, I have printed out the model on card and stuck some of it onto thicker card as per the instructions, next stage will be the cutting out and sticking stage.

Photos to follow once I have cut and stuck something, hopefully not my fingers

Regards Splash

[Dirkpitt289]

I have several of these kits but have yet to start any of them. I look forward to seeing how you do with this Splash.

[splash]

I have cut out and stuck four of the frames to the ships keel, I'm not sure if the frames are two thick, I will add a couple more to see how it goes.



Regards Splash

[Dirkpitt289]

What thickness paper are you using Splash? Seems really thick

[ShaunW]

Interesting Splash. A card model - how hard can it be?

[splash]

What thickness paper are you using Splash? Seems really thick

I have printed it all on 120g card the center line is a clever design they have printed both sides together, you cut out the shape fold it in two but only stick the upper half to make it double thickness the lower half at the bow and Sterne is folded out at 90 degrees and stuck to the base, the middle section is folded in two parts the outward part is stuck to the base, as you can see in the photo this gives you an inverted V section on the center line.

The frames are printed then stuck on thick card, I have used photo mounting card, the type you use for making frames around you photos as its soft and cuts easy.

The company that did this version of the Titanic also do the Britanic and Olympic in dazzle camouflager troop ship and as the hospital ship. all for free.

Regards Splash

[splash]

Interesting Splash. A card model - how hard can it be?

Its got to be easier than the Airfix TSR2

[splash]

Progress is quicker than I thought, I'm quite enjoy cutting out the parts.





Regards Splash

[iggie]

I'm still terrified by Simon's TSR-2, so will watch this with interest.....
It looks good so far!

[IvanV22]

Interesting!!! Looking forward to seeing more of this kind of modelling.

[IvanV22]

I just remembered I made a Card model back in 2012 , The paper model of the Borg-Kubu from Star Trek! (I used 5 minutes after I down loaded from the net!!!) glued printing paper to stiffer paper and glued / taped it together…

But I think your Titanic is more complicated…

[splash]

I think the small size of this model will be an issue at only 9in long the small detail like the life rafts will be a challenge.

The construction reminds me of a conventional wooden model, at the same time I downloaded this I downloaded the Britanic in her dazzle patten troop ship colours that will look brilliant but has double the amount of life rafts

Regards Splash

[Dirkpitt289]

The company that did this version of the Titanic also do the Britanic and Olympic in dazzle camouflager troop ship and as the hospital ship. all for free.

Regards Splash

Yeah I have them all. I just haven't had the... nerve to try them yet.

[JohnRatzenberger]

The frames do seem thick but I don't know the stresses on this model during build.

I have downloaded SS Olympic in wartime config, might be my Paper GB victim. I am disappointed there are no paper oars for the lifeboats

[SJPONeill]

Off to a great start, Splash, and thanks for the plug to the TSR.2 build. Currell.net has some really nice little models of some well-known and not so well-known subjects...

The best guide to the correct thickness of the frames is the width of the slot into which the frames lock into...I would say that the 1mm thickness if about right for the scale. If you use formers that are too thick, they may prevent the skin following the lines of the hull as you will have square surfaces where the formers are. You can, however, sand the formers to shape if necessary by brushing on CA or wood working PVA (not the office type) which will be sandable once cured...