Sissels Sp&%"=¤# F.22 ** FINISHED **

[Sissel]

Thanks Mike and Shaun.
Yeah I know my drawer is very tidy now, I think half the stuff is on one of the shelves which is getting full now, probably more chaotic than the drawer...

I've now given a first layer of paint on the Spit. Using Vallejo model air aluminium, this is excellent stuff for brush painting as it's just thin enough and goes on easy.
Tomorrow I might add another layer of paint, glue canopy in place (which frames are hand painted on the sprues, forgot close up pic). Also need to touch up around the spinner. This aluminium paint flaks off easily when touching, I might have to coat it with Klear before decalling, but as Klear takes so long to dry, and the decal session will take several hours I'm not sure I will. Plus there is the World Ski Championship I'm gonna see. Really depends on when I get up tomorrow...

[ara398]

Looking very nice indeed Sissel!

Lovely finish! Can't wait to see it done.

Adrian

[flakmonkey]

Brush painting with ModelAir is way above my pay grade; I couldn't even get them to spray. Couldn't you brush a very light coat of Klear then hurry it along with a hairdryer on a very low setting?

[Gregers]

Superb and beautiful finish Sissel. Very impressive work.

All the best.

Greg.

[JohnRatzenberger]

Yes, I know that your brush work is a large part of it, but I'm getting very impressed with your use of the Model Color paint. Unitl now, I've only used a few colors for wood-ish effects and touch-ups, but I'm going to have to try something bigger ....

[Jagewa]

Oh yes lovely painting Sissel, I agree with you on the Model Air Aluminium, brushes lovely.

A bit concerned for your health, as I haven't noticed the booze or food, are you feeling all right?

Cheers
Jim

[Ian]

Now I have been struggling with the undercarriage

I think you've attached the landing gear doors to the wrong legs. Or you've glued the legs on the wrong way round. If you look at what will happen when the undercarriage is retracted the main parts of the doors will overlap the outer section. That might be the cause of your undercarriage problem?

[Sissel]

Thanks guys.
I just woke up, didn't go to sleep before 3 am. Having morning coffee and will get to work in a bit. I will try with a decal later and see if it needs Klear first, if do I will take Steves tip and speed up drying with hairdryer, just hope I wont melt them model

A bit concerned for your health, as I haven't noticed the booze or food, are you feeling all right?

Am having an operation on Tuesday, amongst other things alcohol is banned before and after

I think you've attached the landing gear doors to the wrong legs. Or you've glued the legs on the wrong way round. If you look at what will happen when the undercarriage is retracted the main parts of the doors will overlap the outer section.

On the large wheel doors I didn't follow instructions cause I didn't think it looked correct contra hole, so I reversed them. I should have done on the smaller doors as well, but that would be wrong. I can see in my rush the large doors are wrong as well. I took out the other doors and checked, and allthough it looks wrong from start, when I put them down I see it's correct after all. I offcourse stuck these in will superglue and I will try and remove them, if not I can always shape the spare doors (those for gear retracted) after cutting these off. I also see now in the pic the angle of the wheel gear is wrong. Why didn't I see this yesterday? Hmm...
Boy do things go wrong without alcohol! But I blame the rush and "logical/not so logical thinking afterall" this time. Not your fault for once, Ian. Incredible!

[Ian]

Not my fault....?

** Ian faints **

[Sissel]

Not my fault....?

** Ian faints **

** Throwing water at Ian **

Hoping he wakes up, maybe I need to throw some stronger water with some % in it... ?

I see there is a little bit of fixing to do so think I will bring a laptop up for watching the world ski championship, kicks off in 1,5 hours. Just hope I can concentrate with the shouting commentators

[Sissel]

I am very unsure of what to do next, force rush finish in 5 hours (stressing myself to a headache) or take my time and make a ending decent (throwing in the towel). Rushing would probably make for a bad decal session. I have touched up some places with alumnium, when dry I can touch plane and touch up the underside.
I tried putting decals directly on, disaster. This aluminium paint and decals doesn't work, I even tried without microsol and microset, same result. The aluminum paint scraps off or melts (or how I should put it).
I need to Klear the entire model after paint has dried, and after I've done the underside.

This shows the model just as I have repainted a bit around the decal, you can see the brush stroke. And you can also see how decal reacted with alu paint. I should have taken a pic before repaint to see how bad it is. And no, I didnt get paint on the decal, that is reaction with microset and alu paint.
The underside wing is much worse before repaint, but was embarrassed to show you guys




Will paint some places on the underside, let it dry, then Klear coat it. I just hope with a hairdryer it will go quickly. Canopy is also in place, front fit perfect, back canopy showed some gaps I've overfilled with wood glue

[Sissel]

Yes, I know that your brush work is a large part of it, but I'm getting very impressed with your use of the Model Color paint.

Thank you. But Vallejo Model Color is superb for brush painting, it often needs two thin coats. And apart from the red, white and yellow (I use Revell acrylics for those), all colors are possible to brush paint with good results. For metallic colors I use Model Air as Model Color is thick and useless. Tamiya chrome silver and titanium silver is also excellent for brush painting, no need for thinner either.

[ShaunW]

Nice painting Sissel, you do get a good finish to your models. I would have also applied the decals straight onto the paint - that's what I did with my blitz Gnat and there were no problems with the Tamiya gloss red. However, it would seem that some paints just don't like that method - usually the only way the modeller finds out is when it goes wrong

[Ian]

Hoping he wakes up, maybe I need to throw some stronger water with some % in it... ?

What? A brick?

Your alu paint most likely wasn't fully dry and the water on the decals 'loosened' in a bit. As your Klear dries very slowly there I don't know what else you could have done. I'd be tempted to slow down, miss the deadline and not get a headache. Unlike me, when you've finished throwing things at me!!!

[Sissel]

Hoping he wakes up, maybe I need to throw some stronger water with some % in it... ?

What? A brick?
Unlike me, when you've finished throwing things at me!!!

I was thinking more of some "water" with alcohol in it. Like vodka, would that wake up a fainted Ian, the smell of vodka in his face?

The paint has to be dry, it's been drying since 2 am!
I can only think it's the water from the backing paper reacting with the alu paint. Must be the reason why I got same effect with and without microset. Wet stuff.

Shaun, I also put decals straight on if its a glossy finish. Perhaps this paint isn't shiny enough, it's not glossy that's for sure.

I have coated the plane roughly with Klear now and used a hairdryer. To my surprise it dries in brown puddles! It did this before I took out the hairdryer.
Never seen that before. It is the first time I use this model air paint on such a large surface. I wouldn't know if using humbrol gloss varnish would be better? Reminder for next time to try, but not in a blitz, that stuff takes a night to dry.

Edit: And now I'm a modelling gent and scholar (sex change?), can't believe I've made over 1000 posts, can't be much sense in them!