Airfix 1/32 Sunbeam Rapier completed

[Zane]

At last, my first completion for nearly a year.

Also, my first attempt at a build thread (see Rapier Progress post), which did not turn out as well as I had hoped, mostly because I don't have unlimited access to a camera, but I hope to fix that soon.

Anyway, Airfix's Subeam Rapier, built OOB (Out Of Bag), approx. 1963 vintage:
























Note the gap at the lower edge of the side window - even after careful filing to fit, they refused to sit down once glued to the roof and then fitted as a unit.





Thanks for looking.

Zane

[Dirkpitt289]

Nice build Zane, what's next for 2011?

[Zane]

Thank you Dirk

I have the 'Gargoyle' Aston Martin DB5 in work at the moment, and am grappling with the body as we speak.

Next....well, I've asked advice from the Forum, having posted a photo of my 'stash' (see this board). I think I might do the Mini (1st issue 1962 bagged), though. Still don't have enough courage to start the Ford Capri (I keep imagining the day I take a knife to the first sprue...)

Zane

[montessa315]

Cracking job and a superb shine on that paintwork.


Alan..............

[hamden]

Hi Zane

Great build, brings back memories my father had one of these

Roger

[go on build the Capri you know you want to]

[Zane]

Thanks Alan and Roger.

The Capri is indeed calling me, and in fact I originally started the Aston to allow me to experience brush painting a large bodied car before I tackled the Capri.

Let's see how the Aston turns out, then I'll decide (Mr. Commitment, here ).

Zane

[SJPONeill]

A classic kit, very well built!!

[rono2003]

A nice looking kit of a nice looking car,from the days when all cars looked different each with thier own great looking features unlike the "alllookthesame" cars of today.

Stunning paint finish!

I too would love to see the Capri - a classic of the 70s.

[Zane]

Thank you.

Zane

[JamesPerrin]

Wow that looks super! Better that the box er bag art

[Zane]

Thanks James. Actually, it was the bag header artwork that persuaded me to go for the whitewall tyres, and I'm glad I perservered with them, 'cos they give the whole build a 'period' look.

Zane

[Softscience]

Zane, that finish is terrific!

I saw some of your workbench photos, and it looks like you brush paint. How in the world did you get such a smooth finish?

You're magic, right?

[Zane]

A few words with my missus will soon put you right about my being magic!

But thank you for your comment - I have seen the work you turn out, and I consider this praise indeed!

I do brush paint, and use Humbrol Gloss Enamel exclusively for car bodies.

I posted a quick 'guide' to my method on my Sunbeam Rapier progress thread earlier this year, so to answer your question, I'll quote it here:

"What you see in the pictures is pretty much the finish 'off the brush'. I may locally address certain points with Alclad Polishing Cloth if required.

I always follow these key points when painting gloss on car bodies:

1) Always have a 'painting plan': decide how you will go around the vehicle with the brush. I normally start at the rear lower corner (or front wing), and then work in one direction around the body, taking in wings, bonnet, roof and boot as you go. You should then finish next to where you started.

2) Primer first, rub down wet 'n' dry.

3) Make sure the paint is THIN. Don't be afraid of multiple coats.

4) Work quickly, work the panel you are on until you are happy (in one direction) , but never go back over it after more than 15 - 20 seconds. If it's naff (spotty, inclusions, patchy, etc), just leave it, let it dry & rub down for the next coat. Otherwise, you'll get many residual brush strokes which make rubbing down a pain.

5) Use the right size brush for the area. Big is better. You may need more than one brush on the go at once.

6) When dry, wait for 24 hours before rubbing down with 1200 grade wet 'n' dry paper. Use loads of water and a light touch.

7) Recoat until you've got a deep, rich finish. I normally aim for 3 coats max, otherwise more layers will obscure fine detail like name letters etc."

Comments & feedback welcome.

Zane

[Softscience]

Thanks much for that.

In addition to the mini that I'm working on now, I also have some old beat up car model that never worked out because I remember trying to polish out the finish, and I began to rub paint off of the high edges. I recall letting the paint dry for several days before I buffed it and that still happened. Do you ever run into this problem?

[Zane]

I have never attempted buffing out to that extent, to be honest. My preferred option would probably be to rub down wet 'n' dry and repaint. I try to get the desired finish at the painting stage, so that any polishing or buffing is only needed for small imperfections, and therefore need only be light. I have started using Alclad Micro Polishing Cloths, which go down to a 12,000 (twelve thousand) grit, and they are great for this.

Hope this makes sense.

Zane