Datto 1600 thrash-pig Hasegawa 1/24
Posted: January 14th, 2018, 11:48 pm
I like to build models of 1970s Japanese 4 cylinders and rotaries that I myself owned, would like to have owned, or my friends owned. I never had a Datsun 1600 (AKA Nissan Bluebird 510) but mates of mine did and if the right one had come along and I hadn't been so fixated on Mazdas I would have happily owned it thrashed the life out of it on dirt roads like any good citizen should.
This model represents that 1600 I never had. Lightly modified (probably running an FJ20) with sill and roof gutter rust that hadn't been cut out and bogged yet and a good coating of dirt from unsealed road shenanigans. It's the Hasegawa 1/24 kit. I probably would have got those license plates too, if they'd been available.
The body was coated in grey primer, then rust bubbles applied along the sill and roof line using small spots of superglue gel. I then painted over most of the body in rust brown/red. I put dabs of white PVA glue (because I had run out of maskol) over the rust bubbles and other spots where I wanted rust to show through. It was then sprayed in "Ivory" using the budget automotive spray cans that I usually used. After the paint dried, I chipped and peeled away the PVA glue with the point of a scalpel to expose the rust and added some more rust colour around these spots using pastel powders. This is a new technique for me - I've never attempted rust weathering before. I figured "how hard can it be?". It helps to have intimate knowledge of what it looks like on the real thing [remembers *that* 1975 Corolla.....shudders....]
Dirt weathering was a combination of Tamiya tank weathering pigments (first time I've used these - pretty happy with them) and my own pastels (I ordered a new set with only shades of brown).
Wheels and Tyers were cast reproductions from wheels that came in another kit. Urethane for the wheels, pinkysil silicone mixed with black paint for the tyres. Sports bucket seats were cast repros from another kit too.
Much cutting and butchery took place in the rear wheel wells and on the front suspension to make the wheels fit and get it as low as possible.
Bare metal foil was used for the bumpers and Vallejo liquid silver for the window chrome trim. Number plates are just printed on paper and mounted on thin styrene card.
The greatest praise came when I sent my brother a picture by text (the first one below) and he thought I had played a joke on him by finding a photo of a real car on eBay and passing it off as a model
He said he had tried zooming in on the rust spots to figure it out but that only made him more convinced. Like me, he has plenty of experience cutting out rust on 1970s cars at annual mechanical inspection time and knows exactly what it looks like, so I definitely took that as a compliment
This model represents that 1600 I never had. Lightly modified (probably running an FJ20) with sill and roof gutter rust that hadn't been cut out and bogged yet and a good coating of dirt from unsealed road shenanigans. It's the Hasegawa 1/24 kit. I probably would have got those license plates too, if they'd been available.
The body was coated in grey primer, then rust bubbles applied along the sill and roof line using small spots of superglue gel. I then painted over most of the body in rust brown/red. I put dabs of white PVA glue (because I had run out of maskol) over the rust bubbles and other spots where I wanted rust to show through. It was then sprayed in "Ivory" using the budget automotive spray cans that I usually used. After the paint dried, I chipped and peeled away the PVA glue with the point of a scalpel to expose the rust and added some more rust colour around these spots using pastel powders. This is a new technique for me - I've never attempted rust weathering before. I figured "how hard can it be?". It helps to have intimate knowledge of what it looks like on the real thing [remembers *that* 1975 Corolla.....shudders....]
Dirt weathering was a combination of Tamiya tank weathering pigments (first time I've used these - pretty happy with them) and my own pastels (I ordered a new set with only shades of brown).
Wheels and Tyers were cast reproductions from wheels that came in another kit. Urethane for the wheels, pinkysil silicone mixed with black paint for the tyres. Sports bucket seats were cast repros from another kit too.
Much cutting and butchery took place in the rear wheel wells and on the front suspension to make the wheels fit and get it as low as possible.
Bare metal foil was used for the bumpers and Vallejo liquid silver for the window chrome trim. Number plates are just printed on paper and mounted on thin styrene card.
The greatest praise came when I sent my brother a picture by text (the first one below) and he thought I had played a joke on him by finding a photo of a real car on eBay and passing it off as a model
He said he had tried zooming in on the rust spots to figure it out but that only made him more convinced. Like me, he has plenty of experience cutting out rust on 1970s cars at annual mechanical inspection time and knows exactly what it looks like, so I definitely took that as a compliment