Stuart's RFC Scouts.

A World War One GB - any subject, any scale, 1914-1918 - this is not a 1914-specific GB.
Runs 6 weeks, July 28th to September 8th, to allow plenty of time for biplanes, rigging, and holidays.
Your GBL is Chris, assisted by jRatz.
User avatar
Stuart
Raider of the Lost Ark Royal
Posts: 19447
Joined: February 25th, 2013, 4:55 pm
Location: North Wales
Contact:

Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by Stuart »

Hi Guys,

A bit late starting but I thought I'd join you in marking this very important anniversery, and now that the postie has delivered my kits, I can start!

I have Revels 1/72 Camel, Sopwith Triplane and SE5a. They'll all be built OOB and thats were the fun starts as I am a complete utter biplane novice. I don't know how to rig, paint wood or even get the wings on correctly - help might be needed...

Can't wait to start - pics to follow

Cheers

Stuart
Stuart Templeton I may not be good but I'm slow...

My Blog: https://stuartsscalemodels.blogspot.com/
User avatar
fredk
Modelling Gent and Scholar
Posts: 6195
Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by fredk »

Before you start building decide on
Do I want to rig?
a: yes
b: no

If yes; decide on how you want to try. Some methods need work done on the model as it progresses, and some methods can wait till its built.
One of the easiest is to use heat stretched spue after the kit is built. I now prefer using monofilament fishing line and I drill holes through the kit parts - this needs doing as the kit progresses.
Without rigging those wee aeroplanes will be built in a jiff.
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
User avatar
Stuart
Raider of the Lost Ark Royal
Posts: 19447
Joined: February 25th, 2013, 4:55 pm
Location: North Wales
Contact:

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by Stuart »

Thanks for the advice Fred.

I might as well have a go at rigging. I'm not sure by what method yet, I don't know if I could drill and tidy holes neatly enough so I might try a post build method. Sprue or elastic thread and super glue. One method that does appeal is one iI found in an old Airfix book. You rig using Uhu stretched across the gap - this is how I do my Radio wire on WWII aircraft.

Perhaps I might try a few methods.

Which kit do you think would be best to tackle first?

Cheers

Stuart
Stuart Templeton I may not be good but I'm slow...

My Blog: https://stuartsscalemodels.blogspot.com/
User avatar
TobyC
Modelling Gent and Scholar
Posts: 5540
Joined: January 15th, 2013, 2:13 pm
Location: Cobham, Surrey. Blighty

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by TobyC »

Sir T wrote:Thanks for the advice Fred.

I might as well have a go at rigging. I'm not sure by what method yet, I don't know if I could drill and tidy holes neatly enough so I might try a post build method. Sprue or elastic thread and super glue. One method that does appeal is one iI found in an old Airfix book. You rig using Uhu stretched across the gap - this is how I do my Radio wire on WWII aircraft.

Perhaps I might try a few methods.

Which kit do you think would be best to tackle first?

Cheers

Stuart
Lets put it this way. Do the tripe last ;-)
Enjoyment over accuracy. That's my motto
User avatar
AndrewR
In the basement lab
Posts: 24097
Joined: April 5th, 2011, 4:13 pm
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, The Great White North
Contact:

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by AndrewR »

The SE5a is pretty straightforward.

Elastic thread for rigging and drill holes through the wings for doing the rigging. Don't bother with all the lines in 1/72 - the crossed lines on the wings will give a good impression.
Up in the Great White North
User avatar
fredk
Modelling Gent and Scholar
Posts: 6195
Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by fredk »

1: SE5A
2: Camel
3:.....tripe hound, err, Soppy Triplane
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
User avatar
Dazzled
Modelling Gent and Scholar
Posts: 9592
Joined: October 1st, 2011, 11:08 pm
Location: Mid Glamorgan, South Wales
Contact:

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by Dazzled »

EZ line Stu.

Brilliant stuff. 8-)
COLD WAR S.I.G. LEADER

Wherever there's danger, wherever there's trouble, wherever there's important work to be done....I'll be somewhere else building a model!
User avatar
Stuart
Raider of the Lost Ark Royal
Posts: 19447
Joined: February 25th, 2013, 4:55 pm
Location: North Wales
Contact:

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by Stuart »

Hi Guys,

thanks for all the advice - I've made a start on the SE5a and I'll look into getting some EZ line (I think I'll go with the post build method - not sure yet).
Pics to follow but I've laid down some Humbrol 110 Natural Wood on the struts and cockpit, and over that I'll put some sepia Ink and see how it looks. I've also started on the pilot and various metalic bits. It's not a bad little kit this, mouldings a bit soft in places but it looks like it'll go together nicely.

Another question though - I just assumed it was dark green, but in actual fact its not its an olive drabby brown, with light tan-ish lowers. Can anyone suggest what would be the best humbrol colours to use?

Pics to follow.

Cheers

Stuart
Stuart Templeton I may not be good but I'm slow...

My Blog: https://stuartsscalemodels.blogspot.com/
User avatar
fredk
Modelling Gent and Scholar
Posts: 6195
Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by fredk »

PC10 varied from dark green to dark brown. An original piece of fabric from a Pup which I saw once was chestnut brown - allowing for years of fading etc, it would have been a dark brown.
For green, even tho I have some PC10, I use Humbrol 116 or 163, and even 117. 30 is a bit too light, 91 too dark. 98 chocolate brown is not too bad, or if you have any Burnt Umber, its good too.
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
User avatar
Stuart
Raider of the Lost Ark Royal
Posts: 19447
Joined: February 25th, 2013, 4:55 pm
Location: North Wales
Contact:

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by Stuart »

fredk wrote:PC10 varied from dark green to dark brown. An original piece of fabric from a Pup which I saw once was chestnut brown - allowing for years of fading etc, it would have been a dark brown.
For green, even tho I have some PC10, I use Humbrol 116 or 163, and even 117. 30 is a bit too light, 91 too dark. 98 chocolate brown is not too bad, or if you have any Burnt Umber, its good too.
Thanks Fred I'll see what I have. That's interesting though - so the Green i can see on the Sopwith Camel box art is actually supposed to be the same colour I see on the SE5a boxart - PC!0? I assume this vaiation was caused by similers issues that effected the WWII Sky undersides of RAF aircraft? Interesting stuff. I know very little about WWI aircraft, I can see some future reading coming up

What sort of colour would you use for the light brown/crean undersides?

Thanks

Stuart
Stuart Templeton I may not be good but I'm slow...

My Blog: https://stuartsscalemodels.blogspot.com/
User avatar
fredk
Modelling Gent and Scholar
Posts: 6195
Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by fredk »

The light cream underneath RFC machines is unpainted, but doped and varnished linen. Irish linen is/was pure white. Fresh dope doesnt alter it. But the dope yellows and darkens making the linen go from soft yellow to a dark cream.
Thats the waffle. Humbrol has 'Linen' - #74, but its very yellow, so would do an aged machine, but I go for a cleaner look and use 103 cream lightened with white by about 20%. Even 41 ivory would be good.
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
User avatar
Stuart
Raider of the Lost Ark Royal
Posts: 19447
Joined: February 25th, 2013, 4:55 pm
Location: North Wales
Contact:

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by Stuart »

Thanks Fred, that's a great help.
Stuart Templeton I may not be good but I'm slow...

My Blog: https://stuartsscalemodels.blogspot.com/
User avatar
AndrewR
In the basement lab
Posts: 24097
Joined: April 5th, 2011, 4:13 pm
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, The Great White North
Contact:

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by AndrewR »

fredk wrote:The light cream underneath RFC machines is unpainted, but doped and varnished linen. Irish linen is/was pure white. Fresh dope doesnt alter it. But the dope yellows and darkens making the linen go from soft yellow to a dark cream.
Thats the waffle. Humbrol has 'Linen' - #74, but its very yellow, so would do an aged machine, but I go for a cleaner look and use 103 cream lightened with white by about 20%. Even 41 ivory would be good.
I go for about the same range of shades as Fred for the linen cloth, using the Vallejo equivalents (Ivory and buff, or a mixture).
Up in the Great White North
User avatar
Stuart
Raider of the Lost Ark Royal
Posts: 19447
Joined: February 25th, 2013, 4:55 pm
Location: North Wales
Contact:

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by Stuart »

Thanks Andrew - I shall order some paints.

Just to show something and ACTUALLY have a picture in this thread...

Image

Cheers

Stuart
Stuart Templeton I may not be good but I'm slow...

My Blog: https://stuartsscalemodels.blogspot.com/
User avatar
AndrewR
In the basement lab
Posts: 24097
Joined: April 5th, 2011, 4:13 pm
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, The Great White North
Contact:

Re: Stuart's RFC Scouts.

Post by AndrewR »

Here's my version of that kit:

Image

I went for the brown faded look, as the plane was based in Palestine. Also I did a minimalist rigging job :grin:
Up in the Great White North
Locked

Return to “The Guns of August”