A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
- fredk
- Modelling Gent and Scholar
- Posts: 6195
- Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
- Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
A major step backwards.
I checked the interior space with the seat in place. It was far too short for a driver to sit in it. So I cut through the body just aft of the scuttle and lengthened the body by 8mm The joint was filled with plastic card and slathered in plastic soup. This extension made the cut-outs too long so the rear section has plastic card built up and slathered in p/s for re-profiling.
I'm adding to and re-profiling the seat's centre arm rest as well.
The scuttle is too short, so plastic card in strips and bits was glued on to extend it backwards by about 5mm. It too got a generous coating of p/s;
I like using plastic soup on changes like this as the solvent in it makes the p/s and the model plastic meld together. Its a chemical bond rather than a physical which you get with some other fillers. P/s is cheap to make and handy to keep on the modelling work bench. The runny nature of it means it can flow into gaps or voids, and if its thick enough it can bridge gaps.
I came across this photo of a 1907 or 1908 'sports' car;
Hopefully my car will be a bit better looking.
I checked the interior space with the seat in place. It was far too short for a driver to sit in it. So I cut through the body just aft of the scuttle and lengthened the body by 8mm The joint was filled with plastic card and slathered in plastic soup. This extension made the cut-outs too long so the rear section has plastic card built up and slathered in p/s for re-profiling.
I'm adding to and re-profiling the seat's centre arm rest as well.
The scuttle is too short, so plastic card in strips and bits was glued on to extend it backwards by about 5mm. It too got a generous coating of p/s;
I like using plastic soup on changes like this as the solvent in it makes the p/s and the model plastic meld together. Its a chemical bond rather than a physical which you get with some other fillers. P/s is cheap to make and handy to keep on the modelling work bench. The runny nature of it means it can flow into gaps or voids, and if its thick enough it can bridge gaps.
I came across this photo of a 1907 or 1908 'sports' car;
Hopefully my car will be a bit better looking.
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
Fred,
Great job so far. Keep it going!
Regards
Martin
Great job so far. Keep it going!
Regards
Martin
Martin R
"the 'R' stands for 'Representative'."
"the 'R' stands for 'Representative'."
- Old_Tonto
- Modelling Gent and Scholar
- Posts: 8057
- Joined: May 1st, 2011, 7:41 pm
- Location: Middlesbrough, Peoples Republic of Teesside.
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
Yes, top plastic bodging (& melding).
Where does one buy plastic soap?
Where does one buy plastic soap?
2023 - A:0 B:0 C:0
Current Projects:
East German Air Force (1956-90)
South African Air Force (1958-93)
Current Projects:
East German Air Force (1956-90)
South African Air Force (1958-93)
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
How's it going, Fred?
Regards
Martin
Regards
Martin
Martin R
"the 'R' stands for 'Representative'."
"the 'R' stands for 'Representative'."
- fredk
- Modelling Gent and Scholar
- Posts: 6195
- Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
- Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
Slowly, very slowly.
A bad batch of milliput skyboshed some work. It didn't set. I put it on and left it for nearly three days expecting it be rock solid and ready for working, but it was still soft. Washed it off and replaced with a fresh mix, which of course needed 24 hours to harden.
I trimmed the body cut outs to shape then capped them with a length of microstrip to even them. More Humbrol fillers generously applied. Hopefully this will be the last sanding to shape.
Once its sanded to shape it'll get a coat of very fine fillers. That'll be rubbed down to give a very smooth surface for the primer. Once the primer is on, the seat, control pedals and instrument panel can go in;
Amongst a load of model car spares I bought recently I found these red wheels. They are just a couple of millimeters smaller than the kit ones, but they are wider too. They should give the car a better look.
The centres need sleeved down to fit the kit axles. A tube from a cotton bud fits well.
Once this body tub is done and on this will fly together.
A bad batch of milliput skyboshed some work. It didn't set. I put it on and left it for nearly three days expecting it be rock solid and ready for working, but it was still soft. Washed it off and replaced with a fresh mix, which of course needed 24 hours to harden.
I trimmed the body cut outs to shape then capped them with a length of microstrip to even them. More Humbrol fillers generously applied. Hopefully this will be the last sanding to shape.
Once its sanded to shape it'll get a coat of very fine fillers. That'll be rubbed down to give a very smooth surface for the primer. Once the primer is on, the seat, control pedals and instrument panel can go in;
Amongst a load of model car spares I bought recently I found these red wheels. They are just a couple of millimeters smaller than the kit ones, but they are wider too. They should give the car a better look.
The centres need sleeved down to fit the kit axles. A tube from a cotton bud fits well.
Once this body tub is done and on this will fly together.
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
- fredk
- Modelling Gent and Scholar
- Posts: 6195
- Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
- Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
After sanding down the fillers I started to give the body a coat of Liquid Green Stuff, then I remembered one part yet to put on; the fillet for the windscreen.
Two coats of LGS, which was rubbed down with 2000 grade wet & dry used wet,
then it got a spray coat of grey primer, then more LGS because the primer went on funny. More hours of filling little imperfections, rubbing back and priming, more filling etc. At last a coat of matt black enamel which will get micromeshed smooth.
The interior will be semi-matt black. After installation of the instrument panel it can then it can be attached to the chassis. Final colour will be done when its on the chassis but before the wings as I want them a different shade of the main colour.
Two coats of LGS, which was rubbed down with 2000 grade wet & dry used wet,
then it got a spray coat of grey primer, then more LGS because the primer went on funny. More hours of filling little imperfections, rubbing back and priming, more filling etc. At last a coat of matt black enamel which will get micromeshed smooth.
The interior will be semi-matt black. After installation of the instrument panel it can then it can be attached to the chassis. Final colour will be done when its on the chassis but before the wings as I want them a different shade of the main colour.
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
- Clashcityrocker
- Modelling Gent and Scholar
- Posts: 10798
- Joined: May 1st, 2011, 12:31 am
- Location: Adelaide. South Australia
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
Coming along smartly.
Nigel
Nigel
- fredk
- Modelling Gent and Scholar
- Posts: 6195
- Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
- Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
A great day yesterday in Fred's Bohemian Irish Coach Werks
The body was mated up to the chassis;
Before it gets its gloss colour coat there is some detailing to do. I couldn't do some until the body is on as they depend on where the driver's actual position is and then some depend on the position of those details.
One detail which doesn't is the chain final drive.
I wasn't happy with the non-detail on the model parts. I have some photo-etched chain details stolen from a couple of cheap diecast display motorcycles. But upon clearing a modelling desk I came across a spare Airfix de Dietrich. It has chain final drive.
As I have already fixed the positions of the gear box drive and rear axle on the Mercedes the de Dietrich chain drive needs one link taken out of both the top and bottom runs to make them fit;
Top; original de Dietrich kit chain drive, middle; Mercedes kit chain drive, bottom; shortened de Dietrich chain drive
There is no chance I'll have this done by the 29th.
I'm away most of tomorrow, Friday from 15.30-ish to late and all of Saturday to mid evening I'm at a local model show, manning our club tables.
I'd need a week more, minimum, after the 29th to get this done maybe even 10 days.
It'll be finished up in my work bench sometime.
The body was mated up to the chassis;
Before it gets its gloss colour coat there is some detailing to do. I couldn't do some until the body is on as they depend on where the driver's actual position is and then some depend on the position of those details.
One detail which doesn't is the chain final drive.
I wasn't happy with the non-detail on the model parts. I have some photo-etched chain details stolen from a couple of cheap diecast display motorcycles. But upon clearing a modelling desk I came across a spare Airfix de Dietrich. It has chain final drive.
As I have already fixed the positions of the gear box drive and rear axle on the Mercedes the de Dietrich chain drive needs one link taken out of both the top and bottom runs to make them fit;
Top; original de Dietrich kit chain drive, middle; Mercedes kit chain drive, bottom; shortened de Dietrich chain drive
There is no chance I'll have this done by the 29th.
I'm away most of tomorrow, Friday from 15.30-ish to late and all of Saturday to mid evening I'm at a local model show, manning our club tables.
I'd need a week more, minimum, after the 29th to get this done maybe even 10 days.
It'll be finished up in my work bench sometime.
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
- general rocket
- Modelling Gent and Scholar
- Posts: 2790
- Joined: May 1st, 2011, 4:42 pm
- Location: Telford
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
D.N.F.= Do Not Fret. Just get it right and we'll keep watching with interest.
I wish, that I knew what was doing!
- splash
- Senior Service Rotorhead
- Posts: 13828
- Joined: May 1st, 2011, 11:02 am
- Location: Somerset England
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
It's looking great, what colour will it be when finished?
My work bench is starting to look like Portsmouth Naval Dockyard.
- fredk
- Modelling Gent and Scholar
- Posts: 6195
- Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
- Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
I'm thinking of a dark blue body with mid blue wheels and wings
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
- splash
- Senior Service Rotorhead
- Posts: 13828
- Joined: May 1st, 2011, 11:02 am
- Location: Somerset England
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
Nice that would go well togetherfredk wrote:I'm thinking of a dark blue body with mid blue wheels and wings
My work bench is starting to look like Portsmouth Naval Dockyard.
Re: A Car for a WW1 German Pilot
Never mind, Fred. I look forward to seeing it finished.fredk wrote:A great day yesterday in Fred's Bohemian Irish Coach Werks
The body was mated up to the chassis;
Before it gets its gloss colour coat there is some detailing to do. I couldn't do some until the body is on as they depend on where the driver's actual position is and then some depend on the position of those details.
One detail which doesn't is the chain final drive.
I wasn't happy with the non-detail on the model parts. I have some photo-etched chain details stolen from a couple of cheap diecast display motorcycles. But upon clearing a modelling desk I came across a spare Airfix de Dietrich. It has chain final drive.
As I have already fixed the positions of the gear box drive and rear axle on the Mercedes the de Dietrich chain drive needs one link taken out of both the top and bottom runs to make them fit;
Top; original de Dietrich kit chain drive, middle; Mercedes kit chain drive, bottom; shortened de Dietrich chain drive
There is no chance I'll have this done by the 29th.
I'm away most of tomorrow, Friday from 15.30-ish to late and all of Saturday to mid evening I'm at a local model show, manning our club tables.
I'd need a week more, minimum, after the 29th to get this done maybe even 10 days.
It'll be finished up in my work bench sometime.
Regards
Martin
Martin R
"the 'R' stands for 'Representative'."
"the 'R' stands for 'Representative'."