Splash's Card Focke-Achgelis Fa223. ****DNF****

[splash]

Subject to the postal system this will either be a Polish 1/33 scale card model of a Polish Helicopter or a downloaded 1/33 card model of a Focke - Achgelis Fa223 in Russian markings.

The Fa223 looks the more complicated challenge, but being self printable is easier to replace things that don't quite go wrong.

So if tomorrow the postman has nothing for me, I will start the Fa223

[SJPONeill]

When the SM-2 arrives, I would recommend that you scan it - just in case...your printer probably won't exactly match the printed model but often for detail parts - arguably the more likely to present 'challenges' and/or be projected across the room - that doesn't matter too much...always good to carry a spare...

[SJPONeill]

PS. I hope you compromise and do both...I have been eying up the Fa-223 for a while and am very keen to see how it builds; but have never seen an AJ Model so keen to see that one come together as well...

[splash]

PS. I hope you compromise and do both...I have been eying up the Fa-223 for a while and am very keen to see how it builds; but have never seen an AJ Model so keen to see that one come together as well...

That sounds like a cunning plan, I have been studying the Fa223 and like the mixture of complexity and simplistic shapes so I might treat it as a mixed media kit and use card wood and brass, as I think you once gave me some sound advice and said there are no fixed rules with card just build and enjoy.

[SJPONeill]

I've been unable to find any online builds or reviews of Marek's Drache so you may be cutting new card here, Splash...I think that a multimedia approach will be the only way to go due the framework of the rotor booms and also for the undercarriage which will need some serious strength...

If you'd like to try some new tricks for the wheels, have a look through these threads:

This one demonstrates an differnet way of rolling wheels and other shapes where strength may be a factor, or where a former is needed over which you can shape petalled parts... http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/avia ... onowa.html;

This one discusses the excel; tool for calculating the strips for rolled and profiled wheels and other shapes... http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/tips ... ethod.html;

[splash]

No sign of any post today so I have printed off the Drache, the body looks quite straight forward, two of the pages confused me until the penny dropped and I realised they were for printing on the back of two of the sheets.

[splash]

I have printed of all the parts on light card about 190gm, this should work fine for the body panels but will need backing on thicker card for the body formers.

The cockpit has a frame work that I think will be easier to make in balsa wood and the external frames that make up the undercarriage/rotor head structure look more suitable for brass or plastic rod.

[SJPONeill]

Hmmmm....there's actually quite a bit to that...

I use 1mm card for most formers: I buy an A1 sheet of it from my local print shop for $6...the card from cereal boxes and beer cartons is got for parts calling for 0.5mm, and for thinker parts I use thin foam board, or laminate thinner card together...thicker card is quite hard to cut so i try to avoid it. The beauty of the foam board is that it is easy to cut and easier to sand for a better fit and to avoid noticeable steps between former sections...

[splash]

Hmmmm....there's actually quite a bit to that...

why do I suddenly get the feeling I'm out of my depth can someone throw me a life line

[iggie]

Hmmmm....there's actually quite a bit to that...

why do I suddenly get the feeling I'm out of my depth can someone throw me a life line

You'll be fine; anyone who can hack the rear fuselage off a Sopwith and use it for a completely different genre and scale of model can deal with a bit of origami

[splash]

[splash]

At last I'm off the starting blocks, the kit has a complex cockpit frame that I thought might be easier to replicate in wood. little can be Seen as it's mostly at the rear of the cockpit and not fully in the glass house at the front.

[splash]

With a mixture of wood and card the basic cockpit cage has taken shape and once the primer has dried I can give it a coat of dark grey then add the seat and IP

[K5083]

Nice job, the wood was a good idea.

August

[splash]

After a coat of dark grey the cage has been attached to the rear bulkhead and I'm happy with the way it's turned out.

Today I bought some Gorilla PVA wood glue and I must admit I'm quite impressed, it's thicker than normal PVA glue and appears to have much better grab than the cheaper glues.