Eric's German Seabird **DNF**
- fredk
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Eric's German Seabird **DNF**
I haven't been too well these last couple of weeks so I haven't been the sharpest chisel in the tool box.
As the end of this GB got closer I realised I wasnae gonna get this birdie built and finished.
I was fussing that youse wouldn't get your builds done without an extension
Anyways, this evening it hit me between the eyes, with the extension I have a chance
Capt Brown flew each of the Fairey Gannets which went to the German Marineflieger, their Naval Air Force.
So I don't have to worry about getting the code right - they all are.
This is the Novo issue of the old Frog kit
The plastic is weird, almost like a resin. The canopy parts, unusually for a Novo kit, are exceptionally clear and well moulded.
The decals are cracked. I'll have to make up most of the markings from my files.
Paint & marking scheme on the header card,
After getting it I found that it has no u/c bays and has crew heads moulded on.
Thus I bought the photo etch sets for this;
The etch for the u/c bays. There is mention of white-metal parts for the hook and u/c legs but these aren't included anymore
The cockpit etch,
Before and after; one wing with the moulded-on u/c doors removed
The inside of the fuselage with the crew and partitions removed. I've also drilled out the exhaust for fitting a bit of plastic tube
As the end of this GB got closer I realised I wasnae gonna get this birdie built and finished.
I was fussing that youse wouldn't get your builds done without an extension
Anyways, this evening it hit me between the eyes, with the extension I have a chance
Capt Brown flew each of the Fairey Gannets which went to the German Marineflieger, their Naval Air Force.
So I don't have to worry about getting the code right - they all are.
This is the Novo issue of the old Frog kit
The plastic is weird, almost like a resin. The canopy parts, unusually for a Novo kit, are exceptionally clear and well moulded.
The decals are cracked. I'll have to make up most of the markings from my files.
Paint & marking scheme on the header card,
After getting it I found that it has no u/c bays and has crew heads moulded on.
Thus I bought the photo etch sets for this;
The etch for the u/c bays. There is mention of white-metal parts for the hook and u/c legs but these aren't included anymore
The cockpit etch,
Before and after; one wing with the moulded-on u/c doors removed
The inside of the fuselage with the crew and partitions removed. I've also drilled out the exhaust for fitting a bit of plastic tube
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
- DavidWomby
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
Really looking forward to this old kit being done over with the detail you are adding.
David
David
- Purplethistle
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
The old Frog Gannet? there's a blast from the past! I remember that as the first non-Airfix kit I ever got.
"Spits, SLUFS and Rock 'n' Roll"
- fredk
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
The molded on wheel well doors cut away and the etch parts fitted;
I cut away too much at the very front of the nose well, that'll be easily fixed with plasticard shoved in and fillers to even it;
The main cockpit etch mostly built up and ready to install.
I'm trying out this UV glue pen for helping with the etch. The glue is runny with no tack, but you can harden it in about 5 to 10 seconds using the UV light on the pen. If a gap is not too wide it'll fill across it.
I tacked the wheel well bits in with a spot of superglue then ran a fillet of this glue around the right-angle join to hold the etch in place.
99p or so from China, up to £10 local
The instructions for the cockpit photoetch are abysmal.
There are numbered parts on the frame but not numbered on the instruction sheet, some parts on the frame don't show on the i/s at all, eg the pilot's control column, some you have to guess just where they go, and some just don't fit.
All the 'stages' are nonsense. An early stage tells you to put two seats in, but near the end there are instructions for fitting bits behind the seats, so the seats have to come out...
So far I've only stuck etch to my fingers 3 times
I've not forgotten I'll need some lead in the nose of this.
I'll have to extend the u/c legs by about 5 or 6mm as they are designed to plug into the outside of the wings and fuselage and now they'll be fitted up into those areas
I cut away too much at the very front of the nose well, that'll be easily fixed with plasticard shoved in and fillers to even it;
The main cockpit etch mostly built up and ready to install.
I'm trying out this UV glue pen for helping with the etch. The glue is runny with no tack, but you can harden it in about 5 to 10 seconds using the UV light on the pen. If a gap is not too wide it'll fill across it.
I tacked the wheel well bits in with a spot of superglue then ran a fillet of this glue around the right-angle join to hold the etch in place.
99p or so from China, up to £10 local
The instructions for the cockpit photoetch are abysmal.
There are numbered parts on the frame but not numbered on the instruction sheet, some parts on the frame don't show on the i/s at all, eg the pilot's control column, some you have to guess just where they go, and some just don't fit.
All the 'stages' are nonsense. An early stage tells you to put two seats in, but near the end there are instructions for fitting bits behind the seats, so the seats have to come out...
So far I've only stuck etch to my fingers 3 times
I've not forgotten I'll need some lead in the nose of this.
I'll have to extend the u/c legs by about 5 or 6mm as they are designed to plug into the outside of the wings and fuselage and now they'll be fitted up into those areas
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
- splash
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
I have seen those glue pens advertised, what's your verdict?
My work bench is starting to look like Portsmouth Naval Dockyard.
- fredk
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
So far its done whats been asked of it.
However, I'm going to try it out on a couple of ideas.
Let you know later
However, I'm going to try it out on a couple of ideas.
Let you know later
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
- Kitaholic
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
This is looking very good so far. Also interested in the assessment of the UV glue
Regards
Gord
Desperately trying to find his MOJO, don't know where I left it
Gord
Desperately trying to find his MOJO, don't know where I left it
- Purplethistle
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
Ooooh! This is shaping up nicely.
.....liking the Sonic Screwdriver too!
.....liking the Sonic Screwdriver too!
"Spits, SLUFS and Rock 'n' Roll"
- fredk
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
Two of the ideas for the UV glue
1. fixing canopies on, so far = good
2. making landing lights, so far = good
Did two of these on the Gannet. They're only about 2.5mm wide, by under 2mm deep.
The UV glue is thick enough to fill the gap and take the shape of the leading edge. 10 seconds or so, the glue is hard, clear and shiney. It shrunk very slightly but its does the job.
1. fixing canopies on, so far = good
2. making landing lights, so far = good
Did two of these on the Gannet. They're only about 2.5mm wide, by under 2mm deep.
The UV glue is thick enough to fill the gap and take the shape of the leading edge. 10 seconds or so, the glue is hard, clear and shiney. It shrunk very slightly but its does the job.
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
- fredk
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- Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
- Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n
Eric's German Seabird
That photo etch does take time to do
Fuselage closed up, wings on. Fuselage joint needs rubbing/sanding down. That bit underneath at the front of the nose wheel bay has been filled with plastic card, resin and some fillers over it
On inspection the back seater canopy was cracked with a small hole. I use the UV glue on it and it did a good job. However, because the main canopy is as thick as a very thick thing that is thick I spent some time vacum molding some replacements
It took me several attempts. I use plastic from old packaging. It can be variable. Some started to burn before it was ready for molding, some just turned yellow-brown. Some went opaque white when the heat went on it, it cleared when really hot but sometimes went back to the white as it moulded.
Eventually I got the above
Fuselage closed up, wings on. Fuselage joint needs rubbing/sanding down. That bit underneath at the front of the nose wheel bay has been filled with plastic card, resin and some fillers over it
On inspection the back seater canopy was cracked with a small hole. I use the UV glue on it and it did a good job. However, because the main canopy is as thick as a very thick thing that is thick I spent some time vacum molding some replacements
It took me several attempts. I use plastic from old packaging. It can be variable. Some started to burn before it was ready for molding, some just turned yellow-brown. Some went opaque white when the heat went on it, it cleared when really hot but sometimes went back to the white as it moulded.
Eventually I got the above
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Re: Eric's German Seabird
I did this kit last year using I think the same cockpit kit. Of course I was unable to make a new canopy which meant loads of work in the cockpit was all but blurred away by the thick thing canopy!!.fredk wrote:That photo etch does take time to do
Fuselage closed up, wings on. Fuselage joint needs rubbing/sanding down. That bit underneath at the front of the nose wheel bay has been filled with plastic card, resin and some fillers over it
On inspection the back seater canopy was cracked with a small hole. I use the UV glue on it and it did a good job. However, because the main canopy is as thick as a very thick thing that is thick I spent some time vacum molding some replacements
It took me several attempts. I use plastic from old packaging. It can be variable. Some started to burn before it was ready for molding, some just turned yellow-brown. Some went opaque white when the heat went on it, it cleared when really hot but sometimes went back to the white as it moulded.
Eventually I got the above
Hoping to return to modelling sometime this year!!
Owner of Marky's Model Emporium since 2013!.
Owner of Marky's Model Emporium since 2013!.
- Dazzled
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
The Gannet looks great Fred and I'm glad you're feeling better.
And I've got to get me one of those glue pens
And I've got to get me one of those glue pens
COLD WAR S.I.G. LEADER
Wherever there's danger, wherever there's trouble, wherever there's important work to be done....I'll be somewhere else building a model!
Wherever there's danger, wherever there's trouble, wherever there's important work to be done....I'll be somewhere else building a model!
- fredk
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Re: Eric's German Seabird
Getting closer to the finish.
Lots of wee fiddly detailing bits added. A pitot under one wing, the stays on the main u/c legs made from wire, photo etch wheel well doors on, the two T aerials on the tail planes are spares from a MiG 15 kit [ironic or what?]
The vac canopies cut and fitted, where there was a gap I used the UV glue to fill it - this needs trimming a wee bit
I cut out the UV glue from the landing lights to save having to mask them for painting. They are so easy to do it'll not be problem redoing them later
* the main u/c doors have a curved bump in them to allow for one of the struts, but the etch is flat. I couldn't get a bump shape into the door so I put some UV glue on and it'll look like the bumps
Hopefully I'll get this masked up [really just the canopies] and get some white undercoat on later today, then the Sky followed by the EDSG
For an ex-RAF bod I seem to make an awful lot of RNAS & FAA types
late edit; I put about 22 - 23 grams weight in the nose of this - and its not enough. I need to squeeze in another 5.5 grams. I'll use solid bits first then I may have to resort to ............. [drum roll] Liquid Gravity!
PS; I'm liking this UV glue. It certainly has its uses in modelling.
Lots of wee fiddly detailing bits added. A pitot under one wing, the stays on the main u/c legs made from wire, photo etch wheel well doors on, the two T aerials on the tail planes are spares from a MiG 15 kit [ironic or what?]
The vac canopies cut and fitted, where there was a gap I used the UV glue to fill it - this needs trimming a wee bit
I cut out the UV glue from the landing lights to save having to mask them for painting. They are so easy to do it'll not be problem redoing them later
* the main u/c doors have a curved bump in them to allow for one of the struts, but the etch is flat. I couldn't get a bump shape into the door so I put some UV glue on and it'll look like the bumps
Hopefully I'll get this masked up [really just the canopies] and get some white undercoat on later today, then the Sky followed by the EDSG
For an ex-RAF bod I seem to make an awful lot of RNAS & FAA types
late edit; I put about 22 - 23 grams weight in the nose of this - and its not enough. I need to squeeze in another 5.5 grams. I'll use solid bits first then I may have to resort to ............. [drum roll] Liquid Gravity!
PS; I'm liking this UV glue. It certainly has its uses in modelling.
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
- fredk
- Modelling Gent and Scholar
- Posts: 6195
- Joined: May 1st, 2012, 6:25 am
- Location: Donaghadee, N'rn Ir'n
Re: Eric's German Seabird
I've been beaten on this one
DNF
DNF
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.
Its not just how good your painting is, its how good the touch-ups are too.