James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03 **DNF**

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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03

Post by JamesPerrin »

I've had a bad experience of plunging a plastic kit into hot water. While it softens resin, it seems to make plastic distort.

Anyway before further work on the body could take place I needed to get the cockpit tub built. I knew it had sloping sides at the top and needed to fit the figure. I had measurements of the opening's width and the depth available, which shallowed towards the nose. So armed with some vernier callipers I set out the construct it.

I started with some external supports that were of appropriate depth and had the slope of the side consoles cut into them. The sides were each cut from a single piece of 20thou card and using a P-cutter a removed a vee of plastic to allow the upper parts to bend over. These were joined by a floor and a sloping rear section.

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Snug!

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The mark shows roughly were the gear shift goes.

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Once painted aluminium it will be attached the upper body during final construction.
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03

Post by fredk »

neat bit o work
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03

Post by ShaunW »

Excellent work constructing that very neat replacement cockpit tub. My own method would have been much more hit and miss :roll:
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03

Post by JamesPerrin »

Before Fred comes a-knockin I'll just say that I've been ill the last week with some awful stomach bug, but I'm back at it now and I'm currently putting primer on the body parts. I'm using Mission Models' Primer which I bought from Tiger Hobbies at the Huddersfield show and will share my conclusions with you shortly.
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03

Post by JamesPerrin »

So Mission Models paints are being hailed as the saviour of acrylic paints there is plenty of blather out there on the internet so go look it up for yourself. The long and short is a very high pigment count and a very small pigment size; good coverage and improvement spraying behaviour, including reduced overspray. Also the Polyurethane additive for the paints basically triggers the bonding of the paint particles when it dries on the model on not in the bottle beforehand so you you should get a superior smooth and self levelling finish.

Currently the paints are all for Military modellers though aircraft and even SciFi have been mooted. I was interested in the primer anyway as though I use Halford Grey Primer and more often Alclad Grey microfiller I'm still get a rough surface with the later despite lowering my air pressure and trying to avoid overspray.

MM paints are not cheap and been sold on their quality. The Grey Primer, at £7.50 for a small bottle 1oz/29ml, though the thinners at £6.50 for 2oz/58ml is harder to stomach especially as they suggest you use it the also clean your airbrush - fat chance mate IPA will shift the MM primer with no problem, though I will say you can get most of it our with water as it does seem to have longer working time than other acrylics. So I've used it as recommend, 25% thinner to 75% Primer, the thinner necessary to activate the primer. It covers well, red plastic was gone in 3 light coats, forms a very level finish. It it not quite as smooth as I had hoped for especially of you are going for a gloss finish on top. I light rub with 3500 grit micromesh will do the job.

Now the main down side I've found is that this is still acrylic paint and I've come from using lacquer primers which properly bite into the plastic. This raised it head when in the normal course of things I found and area that needed sanding back and refilling. Though you can polish this paint without too much trouble if you use normal sanding sponge/paper it will tear the paint. If you do I have found that if you use micro mesh or other > 1000 grit medium you can feather the edges of the primer and spray without the edges of the paint becoming noticeable. Therefore claims it can be sanded I think are stretching the truth.

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Here I sanded back some remedial filling and the re-polished the whole area.

I've now got some white (Mr Color) down on the necessary areas including the nose where a larger white decal goes. On seeing other builds it was evident that the white background to the decal was not dense enough to hide and red/black demarcation and so I will use a scan of the decal to form a masking template for this area. One issue of my own making was I had used red marker pen during construction, despite wiping this away with IPA some had got transferred to the airscoop. It has the amazing ability to leach through multiple layers of paint. That's the plastic you can see where I've rubbed and polished back.

Image
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03

Post by ShaunW »

Interesting James. The price puts this at the very top end of what I'd pay for a product like this. The last primer that I used was Vallejo which I found to be great until it needed sanding, which it does not seem to like one bit. I've now reverted back to using a light coat of grey paint, usually but not always Tamiya acrylic, as an undercoat and to check the condition of seams. Perhaps it is me but I often question whether a primer on plastic is really required. Over the years I have painted many models by applying the paint onto naked plastic that has been cleaned with thinners appropriate to the type of paint beforehand and allowed to air dry, with no issues.
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03

Post by JamesPerrin »

I think primers are required if you are masking or expecting the handle the parts a lot. I just to it as a matter of course for seam and surface checking and I often use Xtracrylix where it is vital.

OK so it looks like that is as far as I'm going to get before the deadline. All that I could do tonight as apply a final coat of gloss white. Unfortunately (for this GB) I'm away in Valencia from Tues to Sat other wise I think I would have been pretty close to finishing. I will continue straight on with this build on my return. Thanks for the support along the way.
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03

Post by fredk »

It was coming on nicely too
Shame it'll not be finished for the GB endtime but we all look forward to seeing this all done in due course
Al speling misteaks aer all mi own werk..
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03 **DNF**

Post by Eric Mc »

Could be considered as a Tribute to the Great Man now.

Sad to say.
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03 **DNF**

Post by JamesPerrin »

Eric Mc wrote:Could be considered as a Tribute to the Great Man now.

Sad to say.
Indeed, and more onus to get it right. I've done most of the body painting now and I am considering reprinting some of the decals as they have a rather off white background and would stand out against the pure white I laid down as a base.
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Re: James' Matchbox 1/32 Surtees TS16/03 **DNF**

Post by JohnRatzenberger »

By "body painting", I am assuming the model ?
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