Window material
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Window material
I am just in the process of building a revell dambuster lancaster and am cutting out all the windows.
Just wondered whether anyone had any good tips for what to use as the window itself? I was thinking perhaps overhead projector sheet or similar but not sure if that might be too thin?
Thanks
Just wondered whether anyone had any good tips for what to use as the window itself? I was thinking perhaps overhead projector sheet or similar but not sure if that might be too thin?
Thanks
Re: Window material
For all those small side windows I'd use Krystal Kleer or some other similar liquid glazing. Very easy to use for most smaller windows.AceSeafire wrote:I am just in the process of building a revell dambuster lancaster and am cutting out all the windows.
Just wondered whether anyone had any good tips for what to use as the window itself? I was thinking perhaps overhead projector sheet or similar but not sure if that might be too thin?
Thanks
Bluesteel
You can never have too many Meteors/Chipmunks/Gazelles/Jet Provosts/EE Lightnings/Hunters/Harriers/Tiger Moths!
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You can never have too many Meteors/Chipmunks/Gazelles/Jet Provosts/EE Lightnings/Hunters/Harriers/Tiger Moths!
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- AndrewR
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Re: Window material
OHP film works well. I often use it for windscreens in soft-skinned vehicles. Most thin transparent material in packaging works well too.
Cheers
Andrew
Cheers
Andrew
Up in the Great White North
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Re: Window material
Thanks guys. I looked into the Krystal and decided to try out some of my daughters pva glue instead as it seemed essentially the same thing......it has worked but the windows have wrinkled slightly. Not sure if it was the glue at fault or me!! Looks ok though.
Might try adding more glue to see if I can get the wrinkles out
Might try adding more glue to see if I can get the wrinkles out
- AndrewR
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Re: Window material
There are lots of different formulations of PVA glue, and I think the Krystal Kleer is better for forming the thin windows than the general purpose glue.AceSeafire wrote:Thanks guys. I looked into the Krystal and decided to try out some of my daughters pva glue instead as it seemed essentially the same thing......it has worked but the windows have wrinkled slightly. Not sure if it was the glue at fault or me!! Looks ok though.
Might try adding more glue to see if I can get the wrinkles out
I've just made the windscreen for my Swordfish from three slivers of acetate packing material, and stuck them together with white glue.
Cheers
Andrew
Up in the Great White North
- carlos
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Re: Window material
I've also used laminating pockets to good effect on paper-models.
Just run an empty pocket through the laminator, and Presto!.... An A4 sheet of clear window material.
Just run an empty pocket through the laminator, and Presto!.... An A4 sheet of clear window material.
Currently on bench: ICM 1/72 Tupolev Tu-2
Re: Window material
If you can not find Krystal Clear try the newer Testors clear cement. It is like a refined PVA and drys very clear.
I have also used the clear tops off greeting card boxes.
I have also used the clear tops off greeting card boxes.
Besting 60 years of mediocre building of average kits in the stand off scale
- Stevekir
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Re: Window material
I will be starting the same kit in the early Summer (I assume it is the same: 04296, 1/72).AceSeafire wrote:I am just in the process of building a revell dambuster lancaster and am cutting out all the windows.
Thanks
I have had a look at the fuselage and wonder why it would be necessary to "cut out all the windows". They are already cut out. That is, I can poke something through them. Because of the thinning of the plastic around the strips of windows, why can't a few strips of some transparent plastic be fitted inside?
- PaulBradley
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Re: Window material
Be aware that for this type of application, PVA tends to dry out and fall apart in low humidity environments.
Of course, if you live in Britain, you will have no idea what I'm talking about...
My two-year-old Stirling looks as if the vandals have been at her.
Of course, if you live in Britain, you will have no idea what I'm talking about...
My two-year-old Stirling looks as if the vandals have been at her.
Paul
За демократію і незалежний Україну
"For Democracy and a Free Ukraine"
За демократію і незалежний Україну
"For Democracy and a Free Ukraine"
- PaulBradley
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Re: Window material
The glass on the actual aircraft was (near as darn it) flush with the skin. If one was to stick a strip of plastic to the interior of the kit fuselage, it wouldn't be flush with the outside due to the thickness (however thin) of the fuselage plastic.Stevekir wrote:I have had a look at the fuselage and wonder why it would be necessary to "cut out all the windows". They are already cut out. That is, I can poke something through them. Because of the thinning of the plastic around the strips of windows, why can't a few strips of some transparent plastic be fitted inside?
Paul
За демократію і незалежний Україну
"For Democracy and a Free Ukraine"
За демократію і незалежний Україну
"For Democracy and a Free Ukraine"
- Stevekir
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Re: Window material
My model shop demonstrated to me a while back a method of glazing windows which involved putting a dab of Humbrol Precision Poly Cement (in a yellow plastic bottle with a needle spout) in a corner of the window and dragging it to the far corner, which stretched out a thin film of clear cement. But perhaps it is too fragile for use near external surfaces.PaulBradley wrote: The glass on the actual aircraft was (near as darn it) flush with the skin. If one was to stick a strip of plastic to the interior of the kit fuselage, it wouldn't be flush with the outside due to the thickness (however thin) of the fuselage plastic.
BTW: Why did the Lanc have so many windows?