The basics of priming

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Blueberryruby
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The basics of priming

Post by Blueberryruby »

Hi everyone,

I'm coming back to modelling after a very long time away and I want to make sure I do it the best I can. I used to use acrylic paints but from what I've read enamels, although smelly and take ages to dry, have a great finish. As a result I'm going for enamels.

My question is now that I have decided to go with enamels what is the best way to prime the model. Do I just use a white/grey/black matt enamel paint? Or is there a dedicated paint out there that I should be using? Should I thin any paint that I'm going to use down first to make the base layer nice and thin and then build up the primer from there? Can you apply an acrylic "rattle can" primer and then paint enamels over the top?

Also in the interests of fairness and to make this useful to everyone (including me if my wife bans me from using smelly paints!) do these rules also apply to acrylics?

Oh and I'm using the "hairy stick" method.

Thanks!
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beany
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Re: The basics of priming

Post by beany »

Blueberryruby wrote: Can you apply an acrylic "rattle can" primer and then paint enamels over the top?
Firstly, welcome to the forum, nice to have you here. In answer to the above, the answer is yes - Halfords rattle can primers are used widely among us folk hereabouts. I favour the white and grey, and their Appliance White gloss is also very good as a top coat, especially if doing airliners or British V-bombers that need a lot of white coverage. They can be a bit rough in texture so a quick rub down may be in order, unless you are about to apply a couple of coats of enamel on top afterwards.
The golden rule is that you can apply enamels over acrylics but not vice versa (the acrylic often crazes and cracks on top of the enamel).

I also use Tamiya acrylics as primers (they spray beautifully) as I have several of them in obscure colours that I'm not likely to use in anger in their own right. These are half price in Modelzone at the moment so it would be worth stocking up on the whites, greys and even blacks as primers. Black should be used as a primer/undercoat for silver, say Humbrol 11 Silver, as it will then come up very shiny and metallic, especially if you buff it a little.

That's just a quick answer for you - I'm sure the guys here will fill you in more, and also go take a look in the Finishing Tips section. Enjoy you time here mate a post some pictures of your work whenever you can.

cheers
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VickersVandal
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Re: The basics of priming

Post by VickersVandal »

Of what I've tried so far with spray primers, Tamiya spray white primer works best. I apply acrylics or enamels over it, both with the hairy stick.
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AndrewR
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Re: The basics of priming

Post by AndrewR »

I like Tamiya fine white primer, and also the medium grey primer. However, they are very smelly, so you'll need to be outdoors to maintain domestic harmony. :)

I've now moved to airbrushing acrylics, so I now use Vallejo acrylic primers, which don't smell.

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Re: The basics of priming

Post by fredk »

I use a generic primer paint dedicated for use on plastics from a car accessory shop. If you go for one make sure it says its for plastic as the cellulose based sprays will make your model turn to a mis-shapen bit of plastic.

Contrary to what beany says; you can use acrylics over enamels. I have been doing it for years and never have had any problem. Nor any problem using enamels over acrylics.
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Re: The basics of priming

Post by Ian »

Any primer will do. I use Halfords, as it's readily available and relatively cheap.
You can paint acrylics over enamels. Just give the enamel 24 hours to cure properly.

While you're in Halfords, grab some wet'n'dry in various grades. 400, 800, 1200 are the ones I use. 4 sheets per pack and they'll last you ages. I cut mine up into roughly 1"x2" sections.
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Blueberryruby
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Re: The basics of priming

Post by Blueberryruby »

Thanks guys, that's really helpful. I had looked on quite a few places to find a definite answer to whether you can lay down an acrylic primer followed by enamels and hadn't found anything that filled me with confidence.

It just so happens that I have to go to Halfords to get some bits before I service my car so I think I'll give that a go!

Thanks again
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Re: The basics of priming

Post by coptermech »

Ian wrote:Any primer will do. I use Halfords, as it's readily available and relatively cheap.
You can paint acrylics over enamels. Just give the enamel 24 hours to cure properly.

While you're in Halfords, grab some wet'n'dry in various grades. 400, 800, 1200 are the ones I use. 4 sheets per pack and they'll last you ages. I cut mine up into roughly 1"x2" sections.
I also use primer from a can, generally Krylon brand. I'm assuming that it's comparable to what you have there. Krlon is a major brand sold everywhere here. And I'm also curious? Is Halfords similar to our big chain home improvement stores here such as Home Depot?
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Re: The basics of priming

Post by JamesPerrin »

Halfords is a chain of auto shops, they are the main chain selling bicycles. Apart from car sprays they have some useful hobby tools too.
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JohnRatzenberger
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Re: The basics of priming

Post by JohnRatzenberger »

So Halfords primer is probably like a Krylon primer over here, out of a Pep Boy's or Napa, etc.

I have used the Krylon gray and red primers on plastic quite successfully, but practice first -- big can, big blast.

I also use the Tamiya rattle can primers and they are quite good, with their Fine White also making a good Coastal base coat .... Also Tamiya rattle can paints make good primer, especially silver or black - kinda a combo primer and base coat.

I am now experimenting with Vallejo (acrylic) primers, at least on armor, but I've only used Vallejo paints over top them. I will be trying an aircraft soon. I haven't tried to do Vallejo acrylic over/under enamel yet, but I'm quite happy with the Vallejo line and may switch entirely (well maybe not for ships) once I can figure out the color matches; their classification system is still evolving.
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