"Finish" line in sight, last check for what to do.

[Soulcharger]

Hi, just returned to model making after a 23 year break. I've taken 4 old models I'd already started from my stash and am almost ready to start painting and adding decals. The models are two old Revell and two old Frog fighters. Here are my questions :
1. When I'm ready to paint, 1st an overall coat (airbrushed) of light grey as a sort of primer/undercoat - Yes/No ?
2. Apply colours, some will be airbrushed and some hand painted, the silver one will be overall airbrushed - add grey paint, matt ? to silver before using ?
3. When all painting done and dry the decals will be ready, is it still best to coat models in a gloss coat for best decal adhesion ?
Some of the decals will be old ESCI ones, they're pretty thick but I'm hoping something like Micro-sol/set will do the trick. Is it OK to use gloss on top the silver ?
4. Once decals added airbrush final finish all over, be it matt or semi-matt - usually what can you expect from the clear bits that are around the decals will they be gone ? Any suggestions ?

I'm documenting everything and will post when finished no matter what the results. I have some old models and pieces, I intend to practice on before the real thing, will post those too. Once done I'll pick another 3 or 4 part started models and hopefully each time I'll improve. Goal is to move onto 1/48th scale aircraft, cant wait
Thanks
Chris

[JohnRatzenberger]

Hi Chris,,

1. Primer is a preference / what-paint-are-you-using thing. One thing is to wash the model just efore painting to get your greasy paw-prints off. IMHO, a primer never hurts.
2. Depends on the aircraft (natural metal, aluminum dope/paint, etc) and the specific silver paint you are using. You can do different things to the silver to get some variation of the panels.
3. Gloss coat isn't just adhesion, it inhibits air bubbles and thus the dreaded "silvering" effect when you can see the carrier film after it is completely dry. Gloss on silver - fine, this is a decal application coat - you'll do a final varnish of matt, semi-gloss, gloss next ...
4. The clear stuff around the decals should be gone. If you had a good gloss undercoat. Then use Micro-Set/Sol to get them to lay down and be still. Sometimes a couple coats of Micro-Sol are needed to get the silvering out. If it still seems present, it might be a good idea to put a matt coat on to see if the remnants disappear. Then you can go back to putting on the actual varnish (matt, semi, gloss) you really want.

BTW, if you are doing silver fabric, then semi-gloss makes a good varnish.

It would help if you would give more specifics, the paint you are using, the varnishes you have, etc .... enamel tricks don't always work with varnish & vice versa ...

[Soulcharger]

Here's the plan :
Model 1 : both undersides and top in Revell/Humbrol enamel
Model 2 : Overall with Revell/Humbrol enamel
Model 3 : Top in Revell/Humbrol enamel - undersides in Tamiya acrylic
Model 4 : both undersides and top in Revell/Humbrol enamel

Plan to use Humbrol Top Cote for gloss/matt/semi-matt finishes.
The overall grey 1st coat/primer will probably be an enamel, haven't made up my mind yet.

[fredk]

I recommend you do not use Humbrol 'Cote' on the Tamiya paint. I've read that it badly reacts with it. It has also been known to react badly with Humbrol enamels, especially the silver.
I use a grey or white plastic primer for cars, available at most stores which supply car accessories. I get it in a spray tin so its ready to spray onto my models.
I use 'Klear', an acrylic lacquer for floors, mis-called a 'polish', for the gloss coats prior to decaling, and one or two coats after decaling, then I use acrylic varnish to get a matt or semi-matt final finish.
For most of my silver over-all paint jobs I use silver paint in spray cans available at the aforementioned car accessory store. Different car makers have various shades of silver, a couple of these are handy to have.
I have in the past, out of laziness, used a car spray paint lacquer finish for the gloss coats.