Mounting on Sprue

[Motley]

Hi all, ive got a quick question. How do you mount your models on clear sprue like you do?? Im planning on doing it with a 144th Hurricane in a little setting but before i go drilling holes in good models i wanted to know what would be the best option to go about mounting this kit (size of sprue and such). I know its a simple thing but i dont really want to mess it up. Any help will be greatly appreciated

Tom

[MerlinJones]

I've occasionally used a combination of sprue and plasticard, especially when the sprue also carries the name of the subject;


More here: http://gregers.7.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=554;


Build here: http://gregers.7.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=1714;

Sometimes, I've just used short lengths of acrylic rod;




Build here: http://gregers.7.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=4583;
And here: http://gregers.7.forumer.com/viewtopic.php?t=4116;

Sometimes, I elaborate the base a little;



In all of the models, none have a huge hole in the belly. I flatten the top of the transparent pole and drill a hole in it. Into this, I stick a short length of plastic rod, as thick as I can get away with.
I then drill an appropriately-sized hole in the belly of the model, having previously balanced the model on a pencil, to find it's centre of gravity.

Whilst transparent sprue has its uses, I'd suggest you visit eBay and look for acrylic rod. This comes in a variety of thicknesses and lengths and, for the purpose you want it, it works out as good value. besides being easy to cut, it's also easy to bend, using hot water.
You might want to check out this link;
http://hobbyplastic.co.uk/index.php?mai ... crylic+rod;

Bending lengths of acrylic rod creates all sorts of opportunities for displaying your smaller models;





In the above, the rod simply goes into the exhausts.

Hope this is of use to you.

Regards,
Bruce

[JohnRatzenberger]

As Bruce suggests, look for acrylic rod -- eBay maybe, I use the Plastruct brand available from many hobby/online stores. They are a foot long and come in diameters from 1/16", in increments of 1/16". I use 1/8" and 3/16" mostly.

I select the diameter based on the weight of the model and the desired angle of the stand such that I can control the bend of the rod and the "bouncing around" of the model. I typically build into the model, a plastic tube of appropriate inside diameter and angle/tilt, such that I can slide the stand in/out for transport.

[Wookie13]

I love the rod idea. It's got me thinking of a plan using a number of the new Airfix Yellowjacks Gnats. Will acrylic withstand coating in expanding foam to create a smoke effect does anyone know? I was impressed by its use on the 1:144 B17 on another thread!

[AndrewR]

I love the rod idea. It's got me thinking of a plan using a number of the new Airfix Yellowjacks Gnats. Will acrylic withstand coating in expanding foam to create a smoke effect does anyone know? I was impressed by its use on the 1:144 B17 on another thread!

I've not tried it, but it should be okay. Acrylic is often used to construct lab apparatus, so it's pretty resilient to chemical attack. It would probably be a good idea to mask off the rest of the acrylic just to make sure there's no fogging on the parts you want to stay transparent.

Cheers

Andrew

[ian lanc]

very thin high tensile steel rod is good as a support for little models and looks better than acrylic rod.

[carlos]

very thin high tensile steel rod is good as a support for little models and looks better than acrylic rod.

I've even used the underwires from the wife's old bras - half a 'curve' embedded into a wooden base....
http://uamf.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=181&t=1345&start=61;


Or a full curve fixed to a base in the middle at the bottom, is good for "Dogfight-double" style mountings.