The Unofficial Airfix Modellers' Forum

I posted this up once or twice in build threads but I thought it worth throwing in here for good measure.
Double rigging at an even spacing is a colossal headache, especially in 1/72. With EZ-line....forget about it!
But then I came up with this shortcut. I pre-space the lines and attach them to a tiny stub of wire, which is then bonded to the plane at each end. The EZ line needs to be slightly shorter than the rigging distance so it's under tension, of course. The wire I use is the very soft steel wire from freezer bag ties, which you need to strip the plastic from. The wire is soft enough to cut with a scalpel into the tiny stub. You could use fishing line too, I'm sure, or just about anything else. I just find the wire easy to work with as it is rigid.

**defunct images**

Edit: I've since found this method to be hit and miss with EZ line and switched to invisible thread, which is more consistent. Also, EZ line is too thick for 1/72.

Imageshack or photobucket or whatever I used has killed the photos I had here anyway.

Scroll halfway down this page for a better description with working images.

Nice tip VV

I'm guessing you attach the ez-line to the wire at the appropriate distance apart and then snip the wire down to size?

Thanks for sharing this again VV. Useful information

iggie wrote:Nice tip VV

I'm guessing you attach the ez-line to the wire at the appropriate distance apart and then snip the wire down to size?

Yes. I tape the wire down at the right distance, lay the EZ line down, glue it and then once dry, cut the wire with a scalpel.

Very clever idea !

Update: I've tried this method using invisible mending thread, which I prefer over EZ line. I measured the gap using dividers then pre-made the double line to correct length. After gluing in place I tensioned it with a glowing match. So far, so good....

Sorry about the blur - very hard to get any better with my camera phone.

Just found this - an really good idea which I now fully intend to try out when I next build a 1/72 British aeroplane.

I hope it works well for you, LM. My suggestion would be to make the line a fraction shorter than the width of the gap measured by dividers. It means it will definitely need to be under tension to fit.
I've already had to heat-tension the rigging on my white Camel again because the double lines went slack.

that's a really good idea/tip, i'll definitely try it should i come across double rigging

So, in the interests of helping others get started on rigging, as I in turn owe a great debt to MerlinJones' rigging guide from long back, I thought I'd show my rigging setup.



I have labelled anything I thought wasn't obvious.

A - small pot of superglue accelerant with a toothpick to apply it

B - an electrician's soldering jig with tape wrapped around the alligator clips to prevent damage to the model. This is absolutely indispensible. You really need a minimum of 3 hands with rigging: one to hold the line with tweezers, another to apply the glue then accelerant and a third hand to hold the model. The jig gives you two extra hands.

C - a beer cap with gel superglue and toothpick applicator
D - another beer cap with liquid superglue and toothpick (I often colour the ends to tell them apart)

Depending on the position of the line I'll use the liquid or the gel. Liquid is less likely to grip but gel can easily leave unsightly blobs of excess. It's a juggling act.


E - "invisible thread" from a haberdashers in smoke colour

The other items are fine tweezers, also indispensible. Very fine scissors and a sharpie blade to cut the line to length are essential. I also regularly use the propane torch to burn any superglue off the tips of the tweezers. It's a neat little unit - a regular cigarette lighter sits inside but the flame comes out as a blue jet.

I also have more toothpicks or matches handy that I can set on fire, blow out, then bring near the rigging lines to heat tighten them.

I realised that I forgot to include my dividers in the picture....so you'll just have to imagine them

I also made up a double rigging strand to demonstrate. I've used stainless steel wire here as it shows up better in photos. The tape is placed the right distance apart (measured from the outer edges, not inner) and the line is glued across taut.

The wire spacing is also exaggerated to make it more visible but that would be way too wide for normal double rigging. Half that gap is about right.

Here's two shots of my Roden Camel that I think better show off the double rigging. In the shot with it upside down, you can see the yellow 0.7mm tape at the point where the lines meet the interplane strut.

i think there's some double rigging on my be2c so may give this a go, thanks for sharing

Early Bird Fan wrote:i think there's some double rigging on my be2c so may give this a go, thanks for sharing

Unfortunately for you, there is, yes:
https://cdn.jetphotos.com/full/5/96485_1411975758.jpg;

All the best with it. Feel free to ask for clarification. I'd recommend practicing on something you care less about if at all possible - got any cheap WW1 British kits around? An Airfix Camel perhaps?

So my current rigging method is:
1. Cut line to longer than needed
2. Dip one end in gel glue and stick it to first attachment point
3. Allow time to fully set
4. Use fine tweezers to pull line taut to other attachment point
5. Use fine scissors to cut line off where the tweezers are gripping
6. Use toothpick to dab glue at end point on model, not on rigging line
7. Use tweezers to grip the line about 2mm from the end and hold taut into the glue
8. Use other toothpick to dab accelerator onto glue
9. Heat tauten with glowing match if required

This is generally reliable and quick and requires no cleanup or repainting of through holes.