It started with a kit.

[JohnRatzenberger]

Yes, I use the BB-shot in the Vallejo bottle as a mixer, but have no problem pulling the top off and sticking a stirring stick inside for a bit -- manual, nothing powered.

[Crewey]

3
Thank you again people.
I would never of thought of putting shot in.
This is why this is so good.
Referring back to the last part, would any of you recommend that weld stuff.
Seems a little extreme to me.
So what next.
Presuming I'm ready for painting.
I want an airbrush.
I never painted before, so this time round I want to do my best.
The compressor I have my eye on is £9 more if I get the £26 airbrush included.
Seems a no brainer but from what I'm reading it will probably be a little limited.
Always buy the best that skints you, my old Ma said.
So at a push (and lying to the wife!) I'm thinking of a Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Two In One.
I think it just beats the Iwata Eclipse CS.
So my next question, for a budget of £150 or $200ish,
What airbrush would you recommend?
Simon.

[TeeELL]

Please be aware that an airbrush requires a whole new set of pain. What paint, what thinners, what dilution rate, what pressure, what needle setting et, etc.etc. Don’t expect to pick up your H&S and do perfection. This is, perhaps, one occasion where a Chinese clone airbrush will help you, that said, there will be plenty who will tell you otherwise. All I will say is that, having used Paasche airbrushes (both single and double action) I purchased a trigger action ‘clone’ and it convinced me to go for an IWATA Neo TRN. I use both. However, airbrushes are a very personal thing.
If you get an airbrush, then throw some money at a course where you will learn how to use it properly, and look after it.

[JohnRatzenberger]

First question: "that weld stuff" - I assume you mean Plastic Weld which is really more like an epoxy for dissimilar plastics - that's not a typical problem in the styrene plastic modeling community, but can be in model rail.

Learn to brush first. Learn paints, thinners, etc. Explore enamel and acrylic. Find brands you like with the colors you need. There are guys on here producing air-brush finishes with the hairy stick. That will get you started modeling a lot sooner than an airbrush will.

Then, decide what you want to airbrush. I am not, and never will be a fancy airbrusher - best I can do is hose down a model neatly. Over the years I've figured out all this and have a double-action brush which I usually just mash down full and I vary the psi at the air source. You'll never see a squiggle camo from an airbrush from me

Then play with the same things - paints, thinners, cleaners, how to maintain that brush -- and what to do when your brush gets really clogged.

It took me decades to make the move, and then only on bigger solid color stuff. But that's me - no artistry, no skill.

I just finished two models. One a figure -- all brush except a thin coat of flat to finish it up. The other a military truck -- 95% airbrush and a few details & touch-ups with a brush. Both used same acrylic paint line. I am starting to use enamel less and less.

[dayzofspeed]

Hi Crewey my introduction to modelling was surprisingly similar to yours but with one difference I did paint my 1st model but only after i'd applied the what I know know as decals back then to me they were simply transfers and I suspect it was a pretty horrendous attempt. I'm still a user of what is affectionately known as the hairy stick but these days I apply the paint first and Im glad to say I've improved a little, anyway my twopenneth worth...yes I Prime my models and I use Halfords own grey primer in a rattle can, this is done while everything is on the sprue in my case. If I do prime then I dont wash the sprue, if for some reason I dont prime then yea I wash the sprue in a mixture of warm water, washing up liquid and some vinegar then hang them up to air dry.
These days my painting technique has changed as a kid I just dunked the brush straight into the pot then applied the paint un-thinned nowadays I thin my paint with plain houshold Turpentine substitute and cover with several thin layers I also sand between each coat with 'fine' wet & dry sandpaper. when I first started doing kits I always used Humbrol enamels when I returned to the hobby acrylic seemed all the rage so I tried them...and hated them so I'm back to good ol' Humbrols. I've never gotten into airbrushing even tho I own a cheap one nor have I gotten into weathering tho I am somewhat tempted. In my opinion my models are definitly not what I would call show class but Im happy with most of them but most importantly to me I enjoyed doing them.
Im a very new convert to tamiya extra thin and very much enjoying the experience I also have a glue brush, various pins and a cocktail stick for thicker glue application. Pva for clear parts and pledge multi purpose polish for enhancing the clearness of said clear parts