RLM paint colors and painting questions.

[fredk]

I disagree.
I think its a paint adhesion problem.
The paint under the masking tape is not adhering to the paint it was put onto

Heres what I'd do; strip off all the masking tape. Put some toothpaste on a car painters prep pad* and scrub the model down. That will remove any paint not adhering well and give a 'key' for a future top coat of paint to grip to. Then start the painting process all over again

I've just been doing this with some Folland Gnats. Paint was not adhering well.

*A painters prep pad is like the pot cleaning part of a kitchen washing-up sponge, but its rougher. At a pinch that bit from the kitchen sponge will do the job too.

[AndrewR]

There is an Internet article here about Mission Models paint, and adhesion.

https://www.cybermodeler.com/hobby/pain ... _mmp.shtml

I only use Vallejo acrylics myself, and cleaning the plastic with soapy water to degrease it is essential, as is Vallejo primer.

But, extreme humidity does cause issues with droplet size and evaporation rate during the spraying, and this can cause issues with quality.

[Allan31]

I agree with most of what's been said. I have used the Mission Model Paints with great success ......BUT.......you must use their system with no exceptions.

I had done some model years ago but used Mission Model like any other acrylic, thinned with alcohol, windex, Tamiya thinner, etc. epic fail.
I then did some www. research. Discovering it was mandatory to follow the MM system, I tried again with perfect results.

My test for color and adhesion was this 1/48 scale Lindberg 262. RLM color accuracy was compared to Mr Hobby lacquers on this FROG 152.







I brush painted this Lindberg Stuka with MM paints mixing my own 70/71 just for giggles.



I used MM paints as well on this FROG 110, no problems.





I use Tamiya fine gray primer on everything. It does seem to be important to let the lacquer gas out a day or so before applying the MM paints.

Funnily enough, I have the FROG Stuka near the top of the build list to test the RLM Mission Model colors just as you're doing.



Hope this helps in some way, best of luck.

[PropWash]

Wow. I really appreciate the help offered to me in this thread. Thank you all very much!

The Cybermodeler link, that AndrewR provided, certainly described everything I'm experiencing with this paint. I did apply the paint as it comes from the bottle (which, as the article states, says you can do right on the label). The problem being that you cannot really do that and expect the paint to adhere to the surface or not otherwise mar easily (I suggest Mission Models (MM) change their labels ). To get the paint on with the results you expect, you need to include an additive with the paint. Ideally, that would be MM Polyurethane additive and thinner (or Future floor polish - more on that in a moment). Only then will the paint work on the model as you would expect.

Allan31: The MM web site certainly has much to say about using their product ( https://www.missionmodelsus.com/pages/t ... tricks-faq ). One thing that stood out, for me at least, was how they really don't approve of using Future mixed with their paint. I wonder if that is more to make you want to use their MM Polyurethane additive, and less an actual caution against mixing it with their paint (Cybermodeler reviewer did just fine). Regardless, this is paint that needs a little extra work to work properly.

Since you are using it, Allan, do you really encourage my getting a bottle of the MM Polyurethane additive, or do you think using Future would work just as well?

My take, so far, on MM paints is that they are very fussy and require a little extra work to apply properly. And I do think the manufacturer does a bit of disservice, to new customers, by having labels extolling its paint's ability to be used right away without any additional prep. But now that I know, I also have to say that paint does work nicely with my airbrush and clean-up well. I'll probably still use it - correctly now.

Again, thank you all for helping me with this.

[Allan31]

Hmmmmmm........tough call.

My impression when I read the label stating it can be used "out of the bottle" was that it did not require thinning. I was always under the impression it needed to have the poly additive added. Something about shelf life if the additive was pre-mixed in the bottle at the factory.

One of the "pros" for me for using this paint is its opacity and coverage yet still providing thin cover coats and not filling in detail. The idea of thinning 50/50 with Future seems a bit much. I could imagine something like a 5-10% mix but not 50/50. For that matter, why not just add the 2-3 drops of MM poly and away ya go. I have a friend in Belgium who posts often (at another site) and uses the "Spanish paint" regularly and every build it seems he is fighting peel up.

I have a FROG Hellcat ready for paint, (maybe today) and all this chatting is doing nothing more than moving the FROG Stuka up to the next build after the Hellcat just so I can see what the 70/71 colors look like out of the bottle along with verifying the adhesion/tape issue.

BTW, I have a half dozen or so Monogram 1/4 kits with the intent of doing exactly what your doing, almost right out of the box just for fun, nostalgic building but using good paint and aftermarket decals.....

[Ratch]

I brush painted this Lindberg Stuka with MM paints mixing my own 70/71 just for giggles.

Far too much contrast

[Allan31]

Giggles, like done for fun. Who would waste good RLM paints on a 1/48 scale Lindberg Stuka done at the kitchen table with almost no light. I know I mixed too much black in the green, giggles. Like kitchen table and hairy stick during Covid lockdown giggles.......

I can do serious 70/71 when I want to...









Etc.,etc.....