Converting Airfix 1/76 Panzer IV F2 to Ausf H

[Cardinal]

Recent kit I received was the Panzer IV from Airfix in 1/76 scale. I already have two other Panzer IV from Corgi Diecast, which are technically closer 1/78, but since the difference is so little I will use all three to form a company. If you plan to or you have done similar conversion before, then you will know the Fujimi/Nitto Panzer IV J is better for converting, but the Airfix kit being much easier to get and being the one I have means it’s what I’m going to make. If you want to know how to convert using the Fujimi/Nitto kit somebody else did it on the forum way back when. But onto this kit:

Overall for a vintage classics kit the Panzer IV from Airfix seems to represent it very well and is similar to the real steel counterpart it has been based on. A simple kit it may be, but also needs a lot of work for what I’m asking it to do. Consequently this means more time on it. I suppose I need the skill, though…



And here is all the parts to the kit:

[Cardinal]

First work I’ve done changing it was the turret and copula. You will notice in the Panzer IV H how different the Copula is from both the Ausf J and F1/2, so whichever kit you pick will need work either way. For this copula modifications, I filled in the crevice using some plastic card which forms the rim better. If you want to you could also add a second, however on mine I felt this first one does a good job replicating. Also removed is a left cylinder that I assume is some sort of filter or cover for a smoke launcher. Using a heated screwdriver (good or bad it’s becoming my favorite tool?) I made the vision slits on the copula much more obvious. That might need some clean up before finished painting but for now looks fine.



That’s all for now.

[ShaunW]

This is one of the very first kits that I built in the early 70's when I started modelling at around 11 years old and is certainly the first armour kit that I ever built. Converting it to the Ausf H will be an interesting project and is the sort of thing I like to do rather than buying a modern kit - where's the fun in that I agree, using an Ausf J would be easier as it has the correct commander's cupola, drive sprockets, (the Airfix ones will probably need some work, depending on how far you want to go) and would only require the addition of a fourth return roller and possibly exhaust, to back date it to the earlier model. If I recall correctly this kit offers two versions, the Ausf E with short barrelled 75mm gun and Ausf F2 with the long barrelled 75mm weapon.

[Cardinal]

I’ll probably cover the sprocket and wheels later. Though I’ll say now chances are they won’t change much.

[B4en]

Good start there Cardinal. The Airfix kit is pretty decent apart from the road wheels and tracks IIRC.

[ShaunW]

I’ll probably cover the sprocket and wheels later. Though I’ll say now chances are they won’t change much.

Whether the effort is worth it in this small scale might be questionable, Cardinal. Much more noticeable is the Schuerzen spaced armour carried by most Ausf H vehicles - are you planning on making a full set or leaving it at the turret, with the hull side plates missing as was often the case?

[AlanW]

Just like Shaun this, too, was one of my first builds way back when. I used the chassis to scratch build a Nashorn, Hummel, Mobelwagen, as well as both short and long barrel versions. I wish I still had them.

[Cardinal]

I’ll probably cover the sprocket and wheels later. Though I’ll say now chances are they won’t change much.

Whether the effort is worth it in this small scale might be questionable, Cardinal. Much more noticeable is the Schuerzen spaced armour carried by most Ausf H vehicles - are you planning on making a full set or leaving it at the turret, with the hull side plates missing as was often the case?

Full set, that is the plan. The sprocket and wheels might get small details, such as bolts, but otherwise it would be not worth changing anything with the much required effort. Gonna play it safe, and leave them mostly as is.

[Cardinal]

The turret is just about complete now, with the exception of the schurzen. That will be added at the very end, just before painting begins. When working on the turret you really only need to know that if you plan zimmerit, only the front plate and partially the gun needs to be given any, with the rest of the turret clear for the schurzen that wouldn't as easily fall off compared the hull skirts. For this I used a heated screwdriver. Before this, make sure to remove the two bulges on the front plate and replace the left one with a smaller bulge, more centered to the side its on. The black is from the fact I used a candle to heat the metal, and should be covered up easily during painting. I will still however clean it up as much as possible just because It could become a problem. However, do take note that it might just be the candle I used, as when I tested on another tank with different candle, it was not seen at all. So just keep in mind it could just be the candle I guess? But If you dislike this method, you could also use a sharpened screwdriver and chisel the zimmerit, or just not use it at all.



I think my work with the zimmerit could be better but still is a good start.

[Cardinal]

The gun, obviously, will need work. Panzer IV F2 guns were not only too short, but also had the wrong style of muzzle brake needed for a Panzer IV Ausf H. There are a few fixes for this:

-Discard the original gun, and use a 1/72 or 1/76 option. This could be aftermarket or just from another kit, but might give you what you need in terms of a 75mm cannon. This is a good option if you have the available parts over scratch building. I would recommend if you are replacing it that you use the Airfix Pak 40 gun.

-Scratch build option 1: Using some sprue or rod of plastic card (preferably hollow), glue to the front of the muzzle. I would recommend a 2-3mm piece. cut some holes on the side, and then you have the muzzle brake of a Panzer IV Ausf H. Depending on how large the sprue/rod is this might look closer to a Tiger muzzle brake, so just be aware and use some reference.

-Scratch build option 2: Using a round sheet of card, cut the original muzzle brake in half. You will not need this piece later. Using the round sheet of card, glue on to the now cut down muzzle. Using two more sheets of identical card, slightly bend to the shape of the round sheet. The final sheet is another round sheet, and should be just around the same size as the original. If you want, cut a hole through the center for the shell to exit. This is the option I have done.

[ShaunW]

Great progress, Cardinal and you're a braver man than me taking a hot screwdriver to a model but I think the effect should look good under paint.

[Cardinal]

For any work on the hull you should remove the vision slit on the left and right plates. These were removed Ausf H and onwards. But for the most part any other details on the upper section of the hull don’t need to be modified and are desirable.

[Cardinal]

If you are doing a similar heated screwdriver method for zimmerit and use a candle but dislike the black it leaves behind— I have the fix you might need. If you are heating at the tip the black will gather. If you apply a bit further back the char should not be an issue. I learned this myself completely on accident. Just remember to clean the screwdriver every few runs. When doing zimmerit on the front remember to have it circle around the ball mount machine gun. Like the drivers vision port, there is no need for any zimmerit specifically on these parts. When working on the drivers vision port make sure to place the port up more, being slightly lower than the center Still. I totally thought that the zimmerit might help the glue attach easier but I was very wrong.

[Cardinal]

When doing the wheels, there are things to note. Airfix’s wheel hub is correct, but has no rim at all. I’m not bothered by this, but you might. If you are doing Fujimi/Nitto Panzer IV the wheels have a rim but are entirely made up. So for those hoping to get the most accurate you can get, the best course of action is using a Matchbox or Revell Jagdpanzer IV L/70 for the wheels. But keep in mind the two front wheels on the kit are different and you might want to buy two kits or use resin molds. If possible, you could also try and find alternative options that may be available but from my knowledge there are none.

The sprocket and idler are also off, but depending on what you use both the Matchbox and Fujimi ones I’m pretty sure are accurate, so replace if you wish. My plans to keep them normal to keep cost down and because the schurzen will cover most of it. The zimmerit will also grab more attention anyways For the return rollers the Airfix ones are actually pretty close and will be hidden, so replacing them is not necessary.

[B4en]

I've never bothered fixing the Airfix wheel rims either, but they have always slightly annoyed me. Next time...