I hope you don't get sworn at as much as these 'Shauns' have been, and I hope you don't keep dropping to floor as often eitherShaunW wrote:Oooh, I've never had parts of a model named in my honour Jim and I see that, like my good self, they are small yet perfectly formed
.... 
Ahh good chance I'm mistaken with the size of wires, I've got the rear of the sponsons the wrong shape.. even though I've got this photo as my PC wallpaper:ShaunW wrote:..crafty use of different guage wire eh? I hadn't noticed any difference in the handles front and rear so you gain some additional observation points there then.
so I think I'm a few million points down there I know, it looks much sleeker, not as warty or nasty as the land Apaches.. though it really looks prototypish, with out any lumps or bumps.AndrewR wrote:I can't help thinking that the Sea Apache looks much more elegant than any of the land versions - much sleeker, without all those little boxes and sticking out bits!
You'll be telling me it's late spring next Jim instead of most of the way through autumn 
Those vents on the rear of the sponsons in your pic of the full-size are staring at me, nooooooooo I must resist the temptation....... Not only that it's Friday here! Mind you it's not much of a spring here, a bit cool for November, no chance to get the mankini out yetShaunW wrote:Morning beans and eggs? man, these time zones - I'm off to the pub in half an hour
In some lights they look obvious others they don't, I think that angle you're looking straight into them. I'm going to try to do some decals for them, I reckon a close black grid pattern might give the effect, could over-spray it to tone it down.ShaunW wrote:Those vents on the rear of the sponsons in your pic of the full-size are staring at me, nooooooooo I must resist the temptation.......
And thanks to you for pointing us at that Vallejo Primer, I was considering I may have to get more colours this morning. I was wondering if there is a pink for undercoating for yellow...AndrewR wrote:I really like having the option of priming in different colours with those Vallejo primers. That sand colour is very handy if you need to spray yellow on top.
I've not noticed how it takes to cure/dry completely, (most fillers I leave overnight) it seems to firm up quite quickly in small amounts, it seems to end up nice and hard, whenit is fully cured/dry. But I haven't used it for large areas.AndrewR wrote:I picked up some Vallejo plastic putty. How long do you leave that stuff to dry/cure?
I often use Elmer's wood filler, for the same reasons Shaun. although as it's water soluble, it makes washing the model before painting a bit tricky. It does mean you can wipe off excess with a damp cloth or cotton bud though. I wanted the Vallejo to give a finer grained finish.ShaunW wrote:I thought of using some plain black decal to represent the vents, otherwise I'll use the Andrew approach
When it comes to fillers, I'm a cheapskate and use ready mixed Pollyfilla fine surface filler, which comes in what looks like an oversized toothpaste tube and is really aimed at household DIY tasks. I've used it for years and found it to give a decent enough finish for my not-too-discerning tastes
I haven't used polyfilla on a plastic model but have used it quite successfully to smooth out any depressions in the hulls of paper ship models...if anything, it's not porosity that the problem but that it dries very smooth and so can be quite hard to get anything to stick to it - not really a problem with paper ships as there is s till a final layer of paper to go over the top with the hull details and colours...Jagewa wrote:Interesting about the polyfilla Shaun, it doesn't dry too porous then? I remember using normal polyfilla, when I was a lad, (the local bookshop that had paints and models, but never had anything as advanced as filler).
